Water Conservation Checklist for the Home
Have
Done
Will
Do
Inspect the plumbing system to see that there are no leaks.
Install reduced-flow showerheads (2.5 gallons/minute).
Limit the amount of shower water by the way you use the controls for the hot and cold water faucets, or a mixer faucet.
Turn off all water if you are going to be away from home on a vacation or trip. This keeps children from turning on outside faucets while you are away.
Check to see how often your home water softening equipment regenerates and backwashes. It can use as much as 100 gallons of water each time it does this. You may want to cut down on the use of such equipment. Reserve softened water for kitchen use, bathing, and laundry. Use unsoftened water for all other purposes. (This may require a bypass line but this is advisable under all circumstances).
Insulate hot water pipes. Having to clear the “hot” line of cooled water is wasteful.
Install a circulating hot water system.
Check all faucets, inside and out, for drips. Make repairs promptly. These problems get worse—never better.
Teach children to turn water faucets off quickly and tightly after each use.
A toilet leak can waste lots of water. Put a small amount of food coloring into the tank. If the color trickles into the bowl, there is a leak and repairs are needed.
Replace existing toilets with 1.6 gallons/flush toilets.
Water required to flush some older 3.5 to 7 gallons/flush toilet can be reduced. Experiment by placing a quart plastic (not glass) bottle filled with water in the flush tank to save 1 quart of water per flush. (Don’t use a brick to fill space in your toilet flush tank. Particles from the brick could damage the valve.)
Or, adjust the float level of the toilet to reduce the amount of water necessary to flush the toilet. Do this carefully to avoid damaging the system. Try only a slight adjustment.
Never use the toilet as a trash basket for facial tissues, etc.
Emergency Situations:
When the toilet needs flushing, use gray water saved from cleaning, bathing, etc. Put the water in the toilet bowl—not the flush tank. If the system loses pressure, gray water, if placed in the tank, could back-siphon into the system and contaminate the drinking water.
Have
Done
Will
Do
Wait until you have a full load before washing items, or use a lower water level setting.
Replace 40 gallon/load washer with an Energy Star® that uses 18 to 25 gallons/load.
Check garments to make sure they need washing. Don’t wash clothes more often than necessary.
Encourage children to change into play-clothes after school so that school- and play-clothes can be worn several times.
Buy clothing and household items that do not require separate washing.
Emergency Situations:
Siphon gray water from your washing machine into a laundry tub or other container for cleaning, to flush the toilet, or water plants. (See directions for using gray water on plants.) Use the gray water as soon as possible. Do not store longer than 24 hours.
Have
Done
Will
Do
Urge family members to take 4 minute showers instead of tub baths. Showers—especially those fitted with flow restrictors or low-volume heads—usually use less water than a bath.
Cut down on the number of showers taken. Replace some of them with sponge baths using a small amount of water in a basin.
Seek other ways to relax besides staying in the shower for long periods of time.
Turn off shower water while you apply soap to body, or lather hair and massage scalp. Install shut-off valve to stop flow without affecting temperature.
Turn off water while you shave, brush teeth, etc.
Emergency Situations:
Close bathtub drain during shower so that the water stays in the tub. Use this to flush the toilet or water outdoor plants.
Have
Done
Will
Do
Use a pan of water when peeling and cleaning vegetables and fruits rather than letting the sink tap run.
To get warm water, turn hot water on first; then add cold water as needed. You get warm water quicker this way and save water, too.
Limit use of a garbage disposal. Save food scraps and run the disposal once to conserve water. You can use the disposal even less by saving food scraps for a compost pile.
Use the smallest amount of water necessary to cook foods such as frozen vegetables and stews. You’ll preserve nutrients as well as save water.
A tight-fitting lid on a pan saves water from boiling away and also cooks food faster, thereby using less energy.
Plan for one-dish meals in which vegetables are cooked or baked without adding water.
Use a tea kettle or covered pan to heat water and avoid loss of water through evaporation.
Time foods during the cooking process to avoid over cooking and loss of liquids through evaporation.
Select the proper size pans for cooking. Large pans require more cooking water.
Use a pressure cooker to save water, energy, and time.
A bottle of drinking water kept cold in your refrigerator saves running the tap to get cold water.
Save leftover vegetable juices for soups, cooking raw or frozen vegetables, stews, and making gravy. Refrigerate and use juices within a day or two.
Using syrups and juices from canned goods saves water and makes foods taste better. Use leftover fruit juices for drinking and making gelatin salads.
Food Preparation Emergency Situation:
If a water shortage seems likely, store water in clean plastic or glass jugs with tight-fitting lids. Keep in the refrigerator and use sparingly.
Have
Done
Will
Do
Cut down on the number of utensils used in food preparation and on the plates and glassware used with meals. This will save on dishwashing used to clean them.
Wash only full loads of dishes in dishwasher. A dishwasher uses about 9 to 13 gallons of water per cycle.
Avoid unnecessary rinsing of dishes that go into the dishwasher for immediate washing. Scrape if necessary.
When washing dishes by hand, use one pan of soapy water for washing and a second pan of hot water for rinsing. Rinsing in a pan requires less water than rinsing under a running faucet.
Have
Done
Will
Do
Chill water in bottles in the refrigerator to avoid running excess water from the lines to get cold water for meals. Shake bottle before serving to incorporate air the water so that it doesn’t taste flat.
Put drinking water on the table only if people really drink it.
Have
Done
Will
Do
Use rinse water—gray water—saved from bathing or clothes washing to water indoor plants. Do not use soapy water on indoor plants. It could damage them.
Water indoor plants only when needed. Too much water can damage plants.
Use water from dehumidifier to water plants.
Have
Done
Will
Do
Car washing, if you use the hose down method, can use a lot of water. You may have to lower your standards and wash the car less often.
Use a bucket of warm sudsy water to remove soil from the car. Hose down only as a final rinse.
Take advantage of a soft summer rain to wash your car. Get out there with soap and sponge! Children will enjoy this.
If water supply allows use of an outdoor pool, cover the pool when it is not being used to prevent evaporation.
Clean the swimming pool filter often. You will not have to replace the water as often.
Use a broom, not the hose, to “sweep” the garage, sidewalks, and the driveway.
Have
Done
Will
Do
Plan landscaping and gardening to minimize watering requirements.
Use native and low water-use plants and turf.
Vegetables requiring more water should be grouped together in the garden to make efficient use of water applications.
Mulch shrubs and other plants to retain moisture in the soil longer. Spread leaves, lawn clippings, chopped bark or cobs, or plastic around the plants. Mulching also controls weeds that compete with garden plants for water. Mulches should permit water to soak into the soil.
Try trickle or drip irrigation systems in outdoor gardens. These methods use 25 to 50 percent less water than hose or sprinkler methods. The tube for the trickle system has many tiny holes to water closely-spaced plants. Drip system tubing contains holes or openings at strategic places for tomatoes and other plants that are more widely spaced.
Irrigate with the proper amount and only when necessary. Understand different water requirements of “zones” in your landscape, and check automatic sprinkler or drip irrigation systems periodically to ensure plants are receiving the water they need without being overwatered.
If you are using a garden hose or sprinkler, water the garden thoroughly, but less frequently. Don’t let water run down driveway or street.
Lawns should be watered during hours when the water system experiences the least demand—avoid watering when windy or in heat of day and keep track of the time. Set an alarm clock or timer as a reminder. A sprinkler left on overtime in one spot wastes water.
Less frequent but heavier lawn watering encourages a deeper root system to withstand dry weather better.
Collect rain water in a barrel and use it to water your garden (please note, this is not a legal practice in all areas).
Avoid planting turf in areas that are difficult to irrigate properly such as steep inclines and isolated strips along sidewalks and driveways.
Aerate clay soils at least once a year to help the soil absorb and retain moisture.
Use porous materials for walkways and patios to keep water in your yard and prevent wasteful runoff.
Emergency Situations:
If water is rationed or otherwise restricted, lawns should receive the lowest priority for outside watering. Water trees and shrubs which die more quickly without it and are more expensive to replace.
Soapy water is generally okay for use on outdoor plants. Do not use water that contains bleach or borax on plants. It could damage them. Rinse water from laundry can be used on outdoor or indoor plants.
When Selecting New Equipment:
Have
Done
Will
Do
Install and use low-volume showerheads.
Select a dishwasher and clothes washer based in part on water requirements and with options for water levels. Consider a suds-saver to reuse water.
Select water-saving toilets. In areas where severe water problems exist, bioconversion toilets may be an answer.
Smaller than standard bath tubs may meet your needs and save water.
Select a water heater sized for family needs, and insulated to prevent heat loss.
Select the most effective type of watering hose for your needs—soaker hose or drip irrigation, if appropriate.
Locate water heater near area where hottest water is needed, usually in the kitchen/laundry area.
If remodeling or building, locate the hot water heater as close as possible to bathroom, kitchen, and laundry areas. The closer to the faucet the heater is, the less water has to be run through pipes.
For this reason, it is sometimes better to have two smaller water heaters: one located in the kitchen area, and one in the bathroom area when the distances between the two areas are great.
Plan landscaping and gardening to minimize watering requirements.
Sunday, July 10, 2011
Water Conservation Checklist for the Home
Water Conservation Checklist for the Home
How much water do you use in a day? A gallon? Ten gallons? Few people know how much they use. The amount is likely to be 60 gallons per person per day. This figure has tripled since 1900!Imagine what it would be like to turn on the tap and find nothing there. People in some parts of the country know this can happen. They are learning how to conserve water. They know that water is a limited resource.
Now, water shortages are a local or regional problem. But in recent years all parts of Montana have experienced drought problems. It is wise to learn now how to conserve nature's precious supply of fresh water.
This checklist is designed to help you see how effectively you are using water, and to alert you to ways to save it. While many of the steps may seem extreme - give a moment's thought to what extreme actions you would have to take if your water supply was curtailed.
Use, Gallons Used per Day
1. Dishwashing, 15
2. Cooking, drinking 12
3. Utility sink (washing hands, etc.), 5
4. Laundry, 35
5. Bathing, 80
6. Bathroom sink, 8
7. Toilet, 100
TOTAL 255
As you read this list, think about the steps you have already taken to conserve water. Note what you still need to do to become a better manager of water resources. PLUMBING
- Install flow control devices in showers.
- Or, limit the amount of shower water by the way you use hot and cold water faucets.
- Cut off all water if you are going to be away from home on a vacation or trip. This keeps children from turning on outside faucets while you are away.
- Check to see how often your home water softening equipment regenerates and backwashes. It can use as much as 100 gallons of water each time it does this. You may want to cut down on the use of such equipment. Reserve softened water for kitchen use, bathing and laundry. Use unsoftened water for all other purposes. This may require a bypass line but this is advisable under any circumstances.
- Insulate hot water pipes to reduce the amount of water that must be run to get hot water to the faucet.
- If possible, locate the hot water heater as close as possible to bathroom, kitchen and laundry areas. The closer the heater is to the faucet, the less water has to be run. For this reason, it's sometimes better to have two small water heaters located in strategic places.
- Check faucets for drips. Make repairs promptly. These problems get worse--never better. (See Extension Publication EB 16, "Home Fitness," for repair details)
- Teach children to turn water faucets off tightly after use.
- See if your toilet continues to flow after flushing. Put a small amount of food coloring into the tank. If the color trickles into the bowl, there is a leak and repairs are needed. (See Extension Publication EB 16, "Home Fitness," for repair details.)
- Place a quart plastic (not glass) bottle filled with water in your toilet flush tank to save 1 quart of water per flush.
- Don't use a brick to till space in your toilet flush tank. Brick particles could damage valves.
- You can adjust the float level of the toilet to reduce the amount of water necessary to flush the toilet. Do this carefully to avoid damaging the system.
- In buying a new toilet, look for a "low volume" model. They don't use as much water per flush.
- Use "gray" water (saved from cleaning, bathing) to flush the toilet. Note: Put the "gray" water into the bowl--not the flush tank--when it needs flushing. Otherwise, if the system loses pressure, "gray" water in the tank could back-siphon and get into your drinking water system.
- Avoid using the toilet as a trash basket for facial tissues and similar items. Each flush uses 5 to 7 gallons of water.
LAUNDRY
- Wash only full loads of laundry.
- Buying a new washing machine? An automatic clothes washer uses 32-45 gallons of water per load. Shop carefully and look for these features:
- Models that use less water. Capacity to fill needs. Don't buy a larger machine than you need. "Float fill" models that provide a more accurate control of the amount of water used than "time" fill. Water level controls so you can adjust the amount of water you use, depending on the load. "Suds saver" models that save wash water for later loads.
- Use the "gray" water that siphons from your washing machine into a laundry tub for cleaning, to flush the toilet, or water plants. See directions for using "gray" water on plants. Use all "gray" water as soon as possible. Do not store longer than 24 hours.
- Save handwashing jobs and do them all together. If possible, use the same sudsy water for several items. Make one rinse do the job of two.
- Check garments to make sure they need washing. Don't wash clothes more often than necessary.
- Avoid buying new clothes that require separate washings.
PERSONAL CARE
- Urge family members to take showers instead of tub baths. Baths take as much as 30-50 gallons of water. Showers use 5-15 gallons of water per minute.
- Cut down on the number of showers taken. Replace some of them with sponge baths using a small amount of water in a basin.
- Limit shower time to 2 minutes or less.
- Relax with massage, stretching, or exercises instead of showers to save water.
- Turn off shower water while you apply soap to body or lather hair.
- If possible, close bathtub drain during shower so that all the water stays in the tub. Use this to flush the toilet or water outdoor plants.
- Turn off water while you shave, brush teeth, etc.
- Encourage children to change into play clothes after school so that school and play clothes can be worn several times.
FOOD PREPARATION
- Save water used to wash produce and to do other kitchen chores by placing a bowl or basin under the faucet. Use water saved for cleaning, watering plants, and similar chores.
- To get warm water, turn hot water on first; then add cold water as needed. You get warm water quicker this way and save water.
- Reduce the use of garbage disposals--which use as much as 2 gallons of water per minute--by peeling vegetables, eggs and other foods on newspapers. Wrap the food waste and dispose of it with the trash. Or, use food waste in a garden compost pile.
- Use only the amount of water necessary to cook foods such as frozen vegetables and stews. You'll preserve nutritional value as well as save water.
- Cook foods over low heat in pans with tightly fitted lids to reduce evaporation of liquid.
- Plan more one-dish casserole meals in which vegetables are cooked without adding cooking water.
- Use a tea kettle to heat water and avoid loss of water through evaporation.
- Time foods that must boil so that too much evaporation does not take place.
- Select the proper size pans for cooking. Pans that are too large require more cooking water.
- Use a pressure cooker to save time and water.
- If possible, cover or wrap foods in aluminum foil during baking or roasting to cut down on the evaporation of liquid.
- Save leftover vegetable juices for reconstituting soups, cooking raw or frozen vegetables and stews, and making gravy. Use within a day or two.
- Use leftover fruit juices for drinking and making gelatin salads.
- Store drinking and meal preparation water for a short period of time, 24 hours or less, if an emergency water shortage seems likely. Use clean plastic or glass jugs with tight fitting lids. Keep in the refrigerator.
- Chill water in bottles in the refrigerator to avoid running water. Shake bottle before serving to incorporate air in the water so that it doesn't taste flat.
- Put drinking water on the table only if people really drink it.
DISHWASHING
- Cut down on the number of utensils used in preparing food, and on the plates and glassware used with meals. This will save on dishwashing.
- Wash only full loads of dishes in dishwasher. A dishwasher uses about 14 gallons of water per load.
- Avoid unnecessary rinsing of dishes that go into the dishwasher. Scrape if necessary.
- If washing dishes by hand, use one pan of soapy water for washing and a second pan of hot water for rinsing. Wash least dirty dishes first.
HOUSEHOLD CLEANING
- Wipe up small spills as they occur to avoid frequent mopping of floors.
- Regularly vacuum carpets and rugs so you won't need to shampoo them too often. Take care of spots as they occur.
- "Collect" household cleaning chores. Do them together to save water.
HOUSE PLANTS
- Use rinse water saved from bathing or clothes washing to water indoor plants. Do not use soapy water on indoor plants. It could damage them.
- Water indoor plants only when needed. Too much water can damage plants.
OUTSIDE THE HOME
- Car washing can use a lot of water. You may have to lower your standards and wash the car less often.
- Drive your car onto your lawn before you wash it. Water if needed grass as you wash your car.
- Use a bucket of sudsy water to remove soil from the car. Hose down only as a final rinse.
- Take advantage of a soft summer rain to wash your car. Get out there with soap and a sponge!
- If you go to a car wash, patronize one that recirculates water.
- If water supply permits use of outdoor pool, cover the pool when it's not being used to prevent evaporation.
- Clean the swimming pool filter often. Then you won't have to replace the water as often.
- Soapy water that comes from soap you can use on your skin if OK for outdoor plants. Do not use water with bleach or borax compound in it on plants. It could damage them. Rinse water can be used on outdoor or indoor plants.
- If water is rationed or otherwise restricted, lawns and annuals should receive the lowest priority for outside watering. Trees and shrubs are more expensive to replace and should receive any available water.
- "Mulch" to retain moisture in the soil. Spread leaves, lawn clippings, newspapers or plastic around plants. Mulching also controls weeds that compete with garden plants for water.
- Try "trickle" or "drip" irrigation systems in outdoor gardens. These methods use 25-50 percent less water than hose or sprinkler methods. A tiny plastic tube runs along the ground near plants. The trickle system provides many tiny holes to water closely placed plants. The drip system tubing contains holes or openings at strategic places for tomatoes and other plants that are more widely spaced.
- If you are using a garden hose or sprinkler, water the garden less frequently but water it thoroughly. Don't let water run down driveway or street.
- Use a broom, not the hose, to clean the garage, the sidewalks and the driveway.
Test Yourself... Using Your Water Conservation Checklist
Test Yourself... Using Your Water Conservation Checklist
This checklist is designed to help you see how
effectively you are using water, and to alert you to ways
to save. Some actions suggested are more severe than
others and would need to be implemented only in an
emergency situation---and are indicated as such.
As you read this list, check the steps you have
already taken to conserve water. Note what you still need
to do to become a better manager of water resources.
Concentrate on the big water uses first.
Inspect the plumbing system to see there are no
leaks.
Install flow control devices in showers. Or, limit
the amount of shower water by the way you use the
controls for the hot and cold water faucets, or a mixer
faucet.
Turn off all water if you are going to be away from
home on a vacation or trip. This keeps children from
turning on outside faucets while you are away.
Check to see how often your home water softening
equipment regenerates and backwashes. It can use as much
as 100 gallons of water each time it does this. You may
want to cut down on the use of such equipment. Reserve
softened water for kitchen use, bathing, and laundry. Use
unsoftened water for all other purposes. (This may
require a bypassline but this is advisable under any
circumstances).
Insulate hot water pipes. Having to clear the "hot"
line of cooled water is wasteful.
Check all faucets, inside and out, for drips. Make
repairs promptly. These problems get worse---never
better.
Teach children to turn water faucets off quickly and
tightly after each use.
A toilet leak can waste lots of water. Put a small
amount of food coloring into the tank. If the color
trickles into the bowl, there is a leak and repairs are
needed.
Water required to flush some toilets can be reduced.
Experiment by placing a quart plastic (not glass) bottle
filled with water in the flush tank to save 1 quart of
water per flush. (Don't use a brick to fill space in your
toilet flush tank. Particles from the brick could damage
the valve).
Or, you can adjust the float level of the toilet to
reduce the amount of water necessary to flush the toilet.
Do this carefully to avoid damaging the system. Try only
a slight adjustment.
Never use the toilet as a trash basket for facial
tissues, etc. Each flush uses 5 to 7 gallons of water.
Items carelessly thrown in could clog the system and adds
to the sewage disposal problems.
Laundry
Wait until you have a full load before washing items,
or use a lower water level setting.
Save handwashing jobs and do several items at one
time. Example: wash a weeks supply of hosiery rather than
daily.
Check garments to make sure they need washing. Don't
wash clothes more often than necessary.
Encourage children to change into play clothes after
school so that school and play clothes can be worn
several times.
Personal Care
Urge family members to take showers instead of tub
baths. Showers---especially those fitted with flow
restrictors or low-volume heads---usually use less water
than a bath. Plug the tub during a shower and compare the
water used with that for a bath. Limit shower time to 2
minutes or less.
Cut down on the number of showers taken. Replace some
of them with sponge baths using a small amount of water
in a basin.
Seek other ways to relax besides staying in the
shower for long periods of time.
Turn off shower water while you apply soap to body,
or lather hair and massage scalp.
Turn off water while you shave, brush teeth, etc.
Food Preparation
Use a pan of water when peeling and cleaning
vegetables and fruits rather than letting the sink tap
run.
To get warm water, turn hot water on first; then add
cold water as needed. You get warm water quicker this way
and save water, too.
Limit use of a garbage disposal. Save food scraps and
run the disposal once to conserve water. You can use the
disposal even less by saving food scraps for a compost
pile.
Use the smallest amount of water necessary to cook
foods such as frozen vegetables and stews. You'll
preserve nutrients as well as save water.
A tight-fitting lid on a pan saves water from boiling
away and also cooks food faster, thereby using less
energy.
Plan more one-dish meals in which vegetables are
cooked or baked without adding water.
Use a tea kettle or covered pan to heat water and
avoid loss of water through evaporation.
Time foods during the cooking process to avoid over
cooking and loss of liquids through evaporation.
Select the proper size pans for cooking. Large pans
require more cooking water.
Use a pressure cooker to save water, energy, and
time.
A bottle of drinking water kept cold in your
refrigerator saves running the tap to get cold water.
Save leftover vegetable juices for soups, cooking raw
or frozen vegetables, stews, and making gravy.
Refrigerate and use juices within a day or two.
Using syrups and juices from canned goods saves water
and makes foods taste better. Use leftover fruit juices
for drinking and making gelatin salads.
Meal Service
Chill water in bottles in the refrigerator to avoid
running excess water from the lines to get cold water for
meals. Shake bottle before serving to incorporate air in
the water so that it doesn't taste flat.
Put drinking water on the table only if people really
drink it.
Dishwashing
Cut down on the number of utensils used in food
preparation, and on the plates and glassware used with
meals. This will save on dishwashing water used to clean
them.
Wash only full loads of dishes in dishwasher. A
dishwasher uses about 9 to 13 gallons of water per cycle.
Avoid unnecessary rinsing of dishes that go into the
dishwasher for immediate washing. Scrape if necessary.
When washing dishes by hand, use one pan of soapy
water for washing and a second pan of hot water for
rinsing. Rinsing in a pan requires less water than
rinsing under a running faucet.
Household Cleaning
Wipe up small spills as they occur to avoid frequent
mopping of floors.
Regularly vacuum carpets and rugs so you won't need
to shampoo them as often. There is less danger of
permanent stains when you take care of spots as they
occur.
"Collect" household cleaning chores. Do them together
to save water. Clean the more lightly soiled surfaces
first---the mirrors, walls, woodwork, and then floors.
House Plants
Use rinse water saved from bathing or clothes washing
to water indoor plants. Do not use soapy water on indoor
plants. It could damage them.
Water indoor plants only when needed. Too much water
can damage plants.
Outside the Home
Car washing, if you use the hose down method, can use
a lot of water. You may have to lower your standards and
wash the car less often.
Use a bucket of warm sudsy water to remove soil from
the car. Hose down only as a final rinse.
Take advantage of a soft summer rain to wash your car.
Get out there with soap and a sponge! Children will enjoy
this.
If water supply permits use of an outdoor pool, cover
the pool when it's not being used to prevent evaporation.
Clean the swimming pool filter often. Then you won't
have to replace the water as often.
Use a broom, not the hose, to "sweep" the garage, the
sidewalks, and the driveway.
Garden and Lawn
Vegetables requiring more water should be grouped
together in the garden to make maximum use of water
applications.
"Mulch" shrubs and other plants to retain moisture in
the soil longer. Spread leaves, lawn clippings, chopped
bark or cobs, or plastic around the plants. Mulching also
controls weeds that compete with garden plants for water.
Mulches should permit water to soak into the soil.
Try "trickle" or "drip" irrigation systems in outdoor
gardens. These methods use 25 to 50 percent less water
than hose or sprinkler methods. The tube for the trickle
system has many tiny holes to water closely spaced
plants. The drip system tubing contains holes or openings
at strategic places for tomatoes and other plants that
are more widely spaced.
If you are using a garden hose or sprinkler, water
the garden thoroughly, but less frequently. Don't let
water run down driveway or street.
Lawns should be watered during hours when the water
system experiences the least demand---usually avoid
watering when windy or in heat of day---and keep track of
the time. Set an alarm clock or timer as a reminder. A
sprinkler left on overtime in one spot wastes water.
Less frequent but heavier lawn watering encourages a
deeper root system to withstand dry weather better.
Water Conservation Checklist for Your Business
Water Conservation Checklist for Your Business
Awareness
- How much water is your business using now, and for what purpose?
- How much does your business pay for water?
- Do you know how to read your water meter?
- Are all employees aware of the goal to conserve water?
- Is there a contact person for water use questions?
- How will employees know when they've been successful in conserving water?
Finding Leaks
One way to detect leaks is to shut down all water-using facilities for some time period and read the water meter before and after. Did the reading change at all?Are there dripping faucets, toilet tanks that don't seal, or leaking hoses? Toilet tanks can be checked with a few drops of food coloring. After 15 minutes without flushing, does any color show up in the bowl?
Eliminating Unnecessary Use
Is water being used in places where it is not really needed?Which tasks could be readily accomplished with less water? For example, could floors be swept instead of hosed down?
Does water from sprinkler systems reach the plants that need it, or does much of it evaporate in the air or run off? Evaporation is especially high for sprinklers that make small droplets, spray them high into the air, and operate during the hottest part of the day.
Are some plants getting more water than they need?
Could drought-resistant landscaping provide an equally appealing look?
Installing Efficient Equipment
Which of the following might be feasibly installed in your business:Faucet aerators, low flow showerheads, on-off valves on showerheads or hoses, toilet tank displacement devices, low-flow or vacuum flush toilets, water-efficient chillers?
Getting Help
Could your business use assistance from water conservation experts?Utilizing thermal imaging to detect leaks
WATER/Sewer Service Check List: Please Circle Applicable Service.
WATER/Sewer Service Check List: Please Circle Applicable Service.
Main ACCT #: ______________________ Customer Name:___________________________
Meter Numbers:________________________________________________________________
Yes No 01. Recycle water - for cleaning and toilets (rainwater) (grey-water)
Yes No 02. Fix water leaks, water-savers
Yes No 03. Test for underground leaks (during shutdown period)
Yes No 04. Repair leaky toilets and faucets – (pressure toilets)
Yes No 05. Eliminate continuous water overflow at water tanks
Yes No 06. Use water restrictors on faucets and showers – aerators, showerheads
Yes No 07. Check for proper insulation for hot water pipes
Yes No 08. Check metered water versus sewer flow
Yes No 09. Use water efficient washers and dishwashers
Yes No 10. Do not over-pressure water pump
Yes No 11. Sub metering
Yes No 12. Water softener
Yes No 13. Tankless water heaters
Yes No 14. Pressure flush toilets with minimum water-flow
Yes No 15. Timer for landscape watering with rain-sensor shutoff
Yes No 16. Pool cover - Solar
Thank you,
____________________________
The Management
Effective water conservation requires awareness, involvement and education
Please sign and fax back to: 818-812-9544 Attn. YD
USGET.05022008
1. ultra low-flush toilets (1.6 gallons or less)
2. 1.6 gpm pre-rinse spray nozzles with automatic shut-off trigger
3. high-temperature dishwashers or low-temperature dishwashers excluding "fill and dump" machines
4. self-closing, low-volume aerators on sinks (less than 1 gallon-per-minute)
5. air-cooled ice-makers (not water cooled)
For laundromats:
1. ultra low-flush toilets (1.6 gallons or less)
2. self-closing, low-volume aerators on sinks (less than 1 gallon-per-minute)
3. horizontal-axis washing machines
Monday, May 9, 2011
Types of energy and utility-telecom audit
Types of energy and utility-telecom audit
An energy audit is an inspection, survey and analysis of energy flows in a building, process or system with the objective of understanding the energy dynamics of the system under study. Typically an energy audit is conducted to seek opportunities to reduce the amount of energy input into the system without negatively affecting the output(s). When the object of study is an occupied building then reducing energy consumption while maintaining or improving human comfort, health and safety are of primary concern. Beyond simply identifying the sources of energy use, an energy audit seeks to prioritize the energy uses according to the greatest to least cost effective opportunities for energy savings.
Home energy audit
An energy audit of a home may involve recording various characteristics of the building envelope including the walls, ceilings, floors, doors, windows, and skylights. For each of these components the area and resistance to heat flow (R-value) is measured or estimated. The leakage rate or infiltration of air through the building envelope is of concern which are strongly affected by window construction and quality of door seals such as weatherstripping. The goal of this exercise is to quantify the building's overall thermal performance. A simplified approach called the UA delta-T method [1] can be used for good approximate results. The audit may also assess the efficiency, physical condition, and programming of mechanical systems such as the heating, ventilation, air conditioning equipment, and thermostat.
A home energy audit may include a written report estimating energy use given local climate criteria, thermostat settings, roof overhang, and solar orientation. This could show energy use for a given time period, say a year, and the impact of any suggested improvements per year. The accuracy of energy estimates are greatly improved when the homeowner's billing history is available showing the quantities of electricity, natural gas, fuel oil, or other energy sources consumed over a one or two-year period.
Some of the greatest effects on energy use are user behavior, climate, and age of the home. An energy audit may therefore include an interview of the homeowners to understand their patterns of use over time. The energy billing history from the local utility company can be calibrated using heating degree day and cooling degree day data obtained from recent, local weather data in combination with the thermal energy model of the building. Advances in computer-based thermal modeling can take into account many variables affecting energy use.
A home energy audit is often used to identify cost effective ways to improve the comfort and efficiency of buildings. In addition, homes may qualify for tax credits from local and central governments.
Typically, only major problem areas will be uncovered during this type of audit. Corrective measures are briefly described, and quick estimates of implementation cost, potential operating cost savings, and simple payback periods are provided. This level of detail, while not sufficient for reaching a final decision on implementing a proposed measures, is adequate to prioritize energy-efficiency projects and to determine the need for a more detailed audit.
This type of audit will be able to identify all energy-conservation measures appropriate for the facility, given its operating parameters. A detailed financial analysis is performed for each measure based on detailed implementation cost estimates, site-specific operating cost savings, and the customer's investment criteria. Sufficient detail is provided to justify project implementation.
The investment-grade audit (alternatively called a comprehensive audit, detailed audit, maxi audit, or technical analysis audit) expands on the general audit described above by providing a dynamic model of energy-use characteristics of both the existing facility and all energy conservation measures identified. The building model is calibrated against actual utility data to provide a realistic baseline against which to compute operating savings for proposed measures. Extensive attention is given to understanding not only the operating characteristics of all energy consuming systems, but also situations that cause load profile variations on short and longer term bases (e.g. daily, weekly, monthly, annual). Existing utility data is supplemented with submetering of major energy consuming systems and monitoring of system operating characteristics.
Online pollution and emission calculators help approximate the emissions of other prominent air pollutants in addition to carbon dioxide.
Pollution audits generally take electricity and heating fuel consumption numbers over a two year period and provide approximations for carbon dioxide, VOCs, nitrous oxides, carbon monoxide, sulfur dioxide, mercury, cadmium, lead, mercury compounds, cadmium compounds and lead compounds.
Home energy audit
An energy audit of a home may involve recording various characteristics of the building envelope including the walls, ceilings, floors, doors, windows, and skylights. For each of these components the area and resistance to heat flow (R-value) is measured or estimated. The leakage rate or infiltration of air through the building envelope is of concern which are strongly affected by window construction and quality of door seals such as weatherstripping. The goal of this exercise is to quantify the building's overall thermal performance. A simplified approach called the UA delta-T method [1] can be used for good approximate results. The audit may also assess the efficiency, physical condition, and programming of mechanical systems such as the heating, ventilation, air conditioning equipment, and thermostat.
A home energy audit may include a written report estimating energy use given local climate criteria, thermostat settings, roof overhang, and solar orientation. This could show energy use for a given time period, say a year, and the impact of any suggested improvements per year. The accuracy of energy estimates are greatly improved when the homeowner's billing history is available showing the quantities of electricity, natural gas, fuel oil, or other energy sources consumed over a one or two-year period.
Some of the greatest effects on energy use are user behavior, climate, and age of the home. An energy audit may therefore include an interview of the homeowners to understand their patterns of use over time. The energy billing history from the local utility company can be calibrated using heating degree day and cooling degree day data obtained from recent, local weather data in combination with the thermal energy model of the building. Advances in computer-based thermal modeling can take into account many variables affecting energy use.
A home energy audit is often used to identify cost effective ways to improve the comfort and efficiency of buildings. In addition, homes may qualify for tax credits from local and central governments.
Industrial & agricultural energy audits
Increasingly in the last several decades, industrial and agricultural energy audits have exploded as the demand to lower increasingly expensive energy costs and move towards a sustainable future have made energy audit greatly important.Types of energy audit
The term energy audit is commonly used to describe a broad spectrum of energy studies ranging from a quick walk-through of a facility to identify major problem areas to a comprehensive analysis of the implications of alternative energy efficiency measures sufficient to satisfy the financial criteria of sophisticated investors. Three common audit programs are described in more detail below, although the actual tasks performed and level of effort may vary with the consultant providing services under these broad headings. The only way to ensure that a proposed audit will meet your specific needs is to spell out those requirements in a detailed scope of work. Taking the time to prepare a formal solicitation will also assure the building owner of receiving competitive and comparable proposals.Preliminary audit
The preliminary audit (alternatively called a simple audit, screening audit or walk-through audit) is the simplest and quickest type of audit. It involves minimal interviews with site-operating personnel, a brief review of facility utility bills and other operating data, and a walk-through of the facility to become familiar with the building operation and to identify any glaring areas of energy waste or inefficiency.Typically, only major problem areas will be uncovered during this type of audit. Corrective measures are briefly described, and quick estimates of implementation cost, potential operating cost savings, and simple payback periods are provided. This level of detail, while not sufficient for reaching a final decision on implementing a proposed measures, is adequate to prioritize energy-efficiency projects and to determine the need for a more detailed audit.
General audit
The general audit (alternatively called a mini-audit, site energy audit or detailed energy audit or complete site energy audit) expands on the preliminary audit described above by collecting more detailed information about facility operation and by performing a more detailed evaluation of energy conservation measures. Utility bills are collected for a 12 to 36 month period to allow the auditor to evaluate the facility's energy/demand rate structures and energy usage profiles. If interval meter data is available, the detailed energy profiles that such data makes possible will typically be analyzed for signs of energy waste [2]. Additional metering of specific energy-consuming systems is often performed to supplement utility data. In-depth interviews with facility operating personnel are conducted to provide a better understanding of major energy consuming systems and to gain insight into short and longer term energy consumption patterns.This type of audit will be able to identify all energy-conservation measures appropriate for the facility, given its operating parameters. A detailed financial analysis is performed for each measure based on detailed implementation cost estimates, site-specific operating cost savings, and the customer's investment criteria. Sufficient detail is provided to justify project implementation.
Investment-grade audit
In most corporate settings, upgrades to a facility's energy infrastructure must compete for capital funding with non-energy-related investments. Both energy and non-energy investments are rated on a single set of financial criteria that generally stress the expected return on investment (ROI). The projected operating savings from the implementation of energy projects must be developed such that they provide a high level of confidence. In fact, investors often demand guaranteed savings.The investment-grade audit (alternatively called a comprehensive audit, detailed audit, maxi audit, or technical analysis audit) expands on the general audit described above by providing a dynamic model of energy-use characteristics of both the existing facility and all energy conservation measures identified. The building model is calibrated against actual utility data to provide a realistic baseline against which to compute operating savings for proposed measures. Extensive attention is given to understanding not only the operating characteristics of all energy consuming systems, but also situations that cause load profile variations on short and longer term bases (e.g. daily, weekly, monthly, annual). Existing utility data is supplemented with submetering of major energy consuming systems and monitoring of system operating characteristics.
Pollution Audits
With increases in carbon dioxide emissions or other greenhouse gases, pollution audits are now a prominent factor in most energy audits. Implementing energy efficient technologies help prevent utility generated pollution.Online pollution and emission calculators help approximate the emissions of other prominent air pollutants in addition to carbon dioxide.
Pollution audits generally take electricity and heating fuel consumption numbers over a two year period and provide approximations for carbon dioxide, VOCs, nitrous oxides, carbon monoxide, sulfur dioxide, mercury, cadmium, lead, mercury compounds, cadmium compounds and lead compounds.
History
Energy audits initially became popular in response to the energy crisis of 1973 and later years. Interest in energy audits has recently increased as a result of growing understanding of human impact upon global warming and climate change.See also
Building energy rating systems:Tuesday, April 5, 2011
Free Energy and the Worldwide Strategy for Suppression of That Technology
Free Energy and the Worldwide Strategy for Suppression of That Technology
When you look around you at the modern world, what stands out the most? What single thing can be said to define this modern era, as opposed to earlier times? The answer is "energy." Whether you live in Belgium or Santa Ana , Atlanta or Calgary , Mexico City or Perth , the one constant in your life is the need for energy.
The Immense Need for Energy of AH Types
Energy is needed in every aspect of modern life. From the electricity used within your home by devices like your computer, TV, Bluray player and your alarm clock to the energy needed to get your car from point A to point B, there is nothing more pervasive.
Our world needs energy; it simply cannot function without it. Moreover, that energy comes at a price. You pay for your gas by the gallon and your electricity by the watt. Energy is metered and doled out in parcels, with a premium attached to each little packet. That premium comes directly from your pocket and fattens the energy producers' bank accounts.
Of course, there is also the environmental cost of energy production. Oil and gasoline require drilling into the depths of the earth, looking for ever-scarcer deposits of crude oil. Even electricity production comes at a high cost to the environment, with pollution being only one of the many side effects that continues to damage and alter our world.
Most people think little about this. After all, you have to pay for that energy, right? You have to pay energy producers for the result of their hard work, correct?
What if there was a better way, though? Interestingly, there is a better way, but you have been kept in the dark about it. Free energy generation has been a concept for more than a hundred years. In fact, it is more than just a wistful idea, a concept without proof. It is real, but there are those who do not want you to know about it.
Who Benefits from Suppressing Free Energy Devices?
The natural question here is who actually benefits if free energy production is suppressed? The answer to that question should be glaringly obvious. Big Oil certainly benefits from suppressing innovative devices that generate free energy. If such devices were openly available for the general public, where would companies like BP earn their money?
However, Big Oil is not the only concern here. Where would your electric company get its money if you were to stop needing a steady supply from the power grid? What would investors do if you no longer needed gasoline in your car, oil for the engine or oil and gas for your home's heating and cooling system?
The government is involved as well. Through special interest groups and lobbyists, Big Oil, the word's automakers and many other entities are able to control our government and suppress things that they deem harmful to themselves.
If that sounds like "crazy talk," you need only consider the mysterious circumstances surrounding some of the most important inventors of yesterday and today. Many of these inventors were disgraced or blackmailed into taking their inventions off the market. Some have even died under what seem like more than suspicious circumstances.
What inventors have had their creations suppressed? Actually, the list is surprisingly long. There are hundreds of inventions that have been proven to offer significant benefits, only to be gobbled up and hidden away by major corporations or suppressed and forced to go underground by government agencies.
Of course, it is not just government and Big Oil that is responsible for suppressing inventions and research into free energy devices. Consider the case of Eugene Marlove, a proponent of cold fusion. He promoted the results of two Utah researchers (Rons and Fleischman) who claimed to have achieved cold fusion in their laboratory, but had their research suppressed by the very scientific community that should have supported them.
Tragically, Marlove was beaten to death on the streets of Norwich , Connecticut , by an assailant who was never brought to justice. While the police claimed robbery was the cause of the murder, many believed it was related to his work. Others researching cold fusion have also claimed to have had their work ridiculed and suppressed by the scientific and academic community.
Stanley Meyer claimed to have invented a water fuel cell that would power a vehicle, and even managed to patent the device. Meyer died suspiciously in 1998, immediately after eating at a restaurant. While cerebral aneurism was the cause cited by the coroner, many people believe that he was poisoned and that agents of Big Oil and the government were to blame.
The 5 Most Important Inventions Suppressed
While there have been hundreds of beneficial inventions suppressed by governments and corporations around the world, there are some that stand out. These include inventions from the likes of Nikola Tesla and Ed Gray, as well as others.
The Tesla Fuel-Less Generator:
Nikola Tesla is considered to have been a man ahead of his time. He was responsible for inventing the alternating current system of electricity that remains in use today, as well as for a number of other dramatic inventions. During the late 1890s, he began working on a generator that would produce electricity without the need for any fuel. However, Tesla was ruined by J.P. Morgan in an effort to keep Morgan's oil revenues high.
The Ed Gray "the motor that runs itself"
During the 1970s, inventor Edwin V. Gray developed, built and patented a self-powering motor. Dubbed "the motor that runs itself," testing of an early prototype showed that it was far more efficient than any device then operating. In fact, his invention was of such importance that he was able to count investors like Bing Crosby and Boot Mallory in his backers. Gray died mysteriously in Nevada before his device could be brought into mass production.
As mentioned previously, Meyer's fuel cell. This device was supposed to be enough to power a car from Los Angeles to New York and only use 22 gallons of water to do it - water, not gasoline. The fuel cell worked by splitting water into its components of oxygen and hydrogen, which were then burned as fuel. Meyer died under suspicious circumstances, which many took to be poisoning.
Thomas Beardert's Electromagnetic Generator:
Bearden has worked on a number of devices, including the motionless electromagnetic generator, a modified Wankel engine and several others. Due to pressure from the UN and other regulatory bodies, Bearden has not been able to produce his inventions in a commercially viable way.
Water-Splitting Technology;
Similar to Meyer's work, there have been other breakthroughs in the area of splitting water atoms apart to utilize the hydrogen and oxygen contained herein. One of the most notable was Dr. Andrija Puharich, who was granted a patent for such a device in 1983.
These are only five of the many advances in energy production technology that have been actively suppressed by the US and world governments, as well as by powerful corporations seeking to ensure a steady stream of profit to their bank accounts. However, this technology is real, and can give you the benefit of free energy - whether you want to power your car, your home or your entire block in some instances!
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