Monday, July 25, 2011

Energy Conservation Begins at Home

Energy Conservation Begins at Home

Let's face it: Staying warm enough this time of year (without wearing a parka inside the house) is expensive.
Check out these 20 strategies for lowering your heating bills, saving resources, and helping to preserve the planet.
1. Wear appropriate winter clothing. Put on a sweater (and turn down the thermostat).
2. Harness the sun. Open south-facing window shades and drapes during the day and close them at night.
3. Flip a switch. Turn off the lights when you leave a room.
4. Give your computer a rest. Your computer's sleep mode (if activated) will let you power it down when sitting idle -- which can save $25 to $75 per year in energy costs. Or simply turn the computer and monitor off when they're not in use -- as well as the printer, copier, and fax machine.
5. Ditto with other equipment. Unplug all your electronic toys (TVs, DVD players, VCRs, cell-phone chargers) to keep them from using electricity when they're not in use.
6. Make your ceiling fan do the work. Most fans have a switch that lets you reverse the motor. The resulting updraft forces warm air near the ceiling down to where it can make you and your family feel more comfortable.

4 More Ways to Keep Warm Air Where It Belongs

7. Stop air movement. Close the fireplace damper when it's not being used. Check your dryer vent cap to make sure it closes tightly when it's not being used. Use ventilating fans sparingly.
8. Plug up the big gaps. Seal cracks, especially around windows and doors, with caulk and weather stripping. Install storm windows.
9. Plug up the small gaps, too. Put foam insulators behind the faceplates for light switches and electrical outlets.
10. Add a barrier. Install or increase the amount of insulation, paying special attention to the attic and basement where the biggest gaps and cracks are lurking.


6 Smart Ideas for Your Heating System

11. Maintain your equipment. Dirt and neglect are the most common causes of equipment failure. So clean or change the furnace filter once a month (or as often as recommended by the filter manufacturer).
12. Make informed choices. Call your local utility and ask what programs are available to encourage energy efficiency (such as rebates on new furnaces).
13. Get a professional opinion. Schedule a checkup of your heating system with a licensed contractor.
14. Install a programmable thermostat. Used properly, this little gadget can save you as much as $150 a year in energy costs. How? By scaling the temperature down when you're away and scaling it back up when you return.
15. Use less energy heating water. Set your water heater temperature to no more than 120 degrees.
16. Invest in new technology. Replace your refrigerator or water heater if either is more than 10 years old. Replace your heating and cooling system if it's old and inefficient. Buy energy-efficient windows and exterior doors. Over a period of years, the energy savings will help make up for the purchase prices.


4 More Bright Ideas for Conserving Energy

17. Help lightbulbs last longer. Install dimmers in the kitchen and dining room -- it adds ambience while saving energy! Use sensors outside to turn lights on only when needed.
18. Get rid of lightbulbs altogether. Solar-powered outdoor fixtures provide electricity-free lighting.
19. Switch brands. Replace standard incandescent lightbulbs with energy-efficient ones. They cost a little more, but use less energy and last a lot longer.
20. Remove the guesswork. Buy Energy Star. More than 50 types of products (from lightbulbs to new houses) bear this label. It means you're buying the most energy-efficient products on the market.

How to Make a Solar Power Generator for Less Than $300


How to Make a Solar Power Generator for Less Than $300
Using parts easily available from your local stores, you can make a small solar power generator for $250 to $300. Great for power failures and life outside the power grid. Power your computer, modem, vcr, tv, cameras, lights, or DC appliances anywhere you go. Use in cabins, boats, tents, archaeological digs, or while travelling throughout the third world. Have one in the office store room in case of power failures in your highrise. I keep mine in my bedroom where it powers my cd player, turntable, lights, modem, laptop, and (ahem) a back massager. I run a line out the window to an 8″ x 24″ panel on the roof.
1. Buy yourself a small solar panel. For about $100 you should be able to get one rated at 12 volts or better (look for 16 volts) at an RV or marine supplies store.
2. Buy yourself a battery. Get any size deep cycle 12 volt lead/acid or gel battery. You need the deep cycle battery for continuous use. The kind in your car is a cranking battery–just for starting an engine. Look for bargains, it should cost about $50-60.
3. Get a battery box to put it in for $10. (This is good for covering up the exposed terminals in case there are children about If you going to install the system in a pump shed, cabin, or boat, skip this.)
3. Buy a 12 volt DC meter. Radio Shack has them for about $25.
4. Buy a DC input. I like the triple inlet model which you can find at a car parts store in the cigarette lighter parts section for about $10. This is enough to power DC appliances, and there are many commercially available, like fans, one-pint water boilers, lights, hair dryers, baby bottle warmers, and vacuum cleaners. Many cassette players, answering machines, and other electrical appliances are DC already and with the right cable will run straight off the box.
5. But if you want to run AC appliances, you will have to invest in an inverter. This will convert the stored DC power in the battery into AC power for most of your household appliances. I bought a 115 volt 140 watt inverter made by Power-to-Go at Pep Boys for $50. More powerful inverters are available by mail. Count up the number of watts you’ll be using (e.g., a small color television(=60 watts) with a VCR(=22 watts), you’ll need 82 watts).
6. Use a drill to attach the meter and DC input to the top of the box.
7. Use insulated wire to attach the meter to the wingnut terminals on the battery. Connect the negative (-) pole first. Only handle one wire at a time. Connect the DC inlet to the battery in the same way. Connect the solar panel to the battery in the same way.
8. Close the lid (I use a bungee cord to keep it tight). Put the solar panel in the sun. It takes 5-8 hours to charge a dead battery; 1-3 hours to top off a weak one. It will run radios, fans, and small wattage lights all night, or give you about 5 hours of continuous use at 115 volt AC, or about an hour boiling water. This system may be added on to with larger panels, inverters, and batteries.
Options: A pop-up circuit breaker may be added between the positive treminal and the volt meter. Some of you will want an ampmeter as well. The panels I recommend have built-in bypass diodes, but I recommend charge controllers for people who have panels without diodes. Another option is a voltage regulator, which is not necessary for a system this small, but a larger system would require one.

Demand (Tankless or Instantaneous) Water Heaters

Demand (Tankless or Instantaneous) Water Heaters

Demand (tankless or instantaneous) water heaters provide hot water only as it is needed. They don't produce the standby energy losses associated with storage water heaters, which can save you money. Here you'll find basic information about how they work, whether a demand water heater might be right for your home, and what criteria to use when selecting the right model.
Illustration of an electric demand water heater. At the top of the image, the heating unit is shown. Cold water flows in one end of a pipe, flows through and around several curved pipes over the heating elements, and out the other end as hot water. Beneath the heating unit, a typical sink setup is shown. The sink has two pipes coming out the bottom, one for the hot water line and one for the cold water line. Both pipes lead to the heating unit, which is installed in close proximity to the area of hot water use, and is connected to a power source (110 or 220 volts).
Download high-resolution diagram:
JPG (ZIP 74 KB) | EPS (ZIP 129 KB)

How They Work

Demand water heaters heat water directly without the use of a storage tank. Therefore, they avoid the standby heat losses associated with storage water heaters. When a hot water tap is turned on, cold water travels through a pipe into the unit. Either a gas burner or an electric element heats the water. As a result, demand water heaters deliver a constant supply of hot water. You don't need to wait for a storage tank to fill up with enough hot water. However, a demand water heater's output limits the flow rate.
Typically, demand water heaters provide hot water at a rate of 2–5 gallons (7.6–15.2 liters) per minute. Gas-fired demand water heaters produce higher flow rates than electric ones. Sometimes, however, even the largest, gas-fired model cannot supply enough hot water for simultaneous, multiple uses in large households. For example, taking a shower and running the dishwasher at the same time can stretch a demand water heater to its limit. To overcome this problem, you can install two or more demand water heaters, connected in parallel for simultaneous demands of hot water. You can also install separate demand water heaters for appliances—such as a clothes washer or dishwater—that use a lot of hot water in your home.
Other applications for demand water heaters include the following:
  • Remote bathrooms or hot tubs
  • Booster for appliances, such as dishwashers or clothes washers
  • Booster for a solar water heating system.
Although gas-fired demand water heaters tend to have higher flow rates than electric ones, they can waste energy if they have a constantly burning pilot light. This can sometimes offset the elimination of standby energy losses when compared to a storage water heater. In a gas-fired storage water heater, the pilot light heats the water in the tank so the energy isn't wasted. The cost of operating a pilot light in a demand water heater varies from model to model. Ask the manufacturer how much gas the pilot light uses for the model you're considering. If you purchase a model that uses a standing pilot light, you can always turn it off when it's not in use to save energy. Also consider models that have an intermittent ignition device (IID) instead of a standing pilot light. This device resembles the spark ignition device on some gas kitchen ranges and ovens.
For homes that use 41 gallons or less of hot water daily, demand water heaters can be 24%–34% more energy efficient than conventional storage tank water heaters. They can be 8%–14% more energy efficient for homes that use a lot of hot water—around 86 gallons per day. You can achieve even greater energy savings of 27%–50% if you install a demand water heater at each hot water outlet.

Selecting a Demand Water Heater

Demand water heaters cost more than conventional storage water heaters. However, you may find that a demand water heater may have lower operating and energy costs, which could offset its higher purchase price.
Before buying a demand water heater, you also need to consider the following:
For information about specific demand water heater models, see the Product Information resources listed on the right side of this page (or below if you've printed out this page).

Installation and Maintenance

Proper installation and maintenance of your demand water heater can optimize its energy efficiency.
Proper installation depends on many factors. These factors include fuel type, climate, local building code requirements, and safety issues, especially concerning the combustion of gas-fired water heaters. Therefore, it's best to have a qualified plumbing and heating contractor install your demand water heater. Do the following when selecting a contractor:
  • Request cost estimates in writing
  • Ask for references
  • Check the company with your local Better Business Bureau
  • See if the company will obtain a local permit if necessary and understands local building codes, etc.
If you're determined to install your water heater yourself, first consult the manufacturer. Manufacturers usually have the necessary installation and instruction manuals. Also, contact your city or town for information about obtaining a permit, if necessary, and about local water heater installation codes.
Most tankless water heaters have a life expectancy of more than 20 years. They also have easily replaceable parts that extend their life by many more years. In contrast, storage water heaters last 10–15 years. Periodic water heater maintenance can significantly extend your water heater's life and minimize loss of efficiency. Read your owner's manual for specific maintenance recommendations.

Improving Energy Efficiency

After your demand water heater is properly installed and maintained, try some additional energy-saving strategies to help lower your water heating bills. Some energy-saving devices and systems are more cost-effective to install with the water heater.

Other Water Heater Options

Learn More

Financing & Incentives

Product Information

Professional Services

Federal Government Resources

Related Links

Reading List

  • "Combustion Equipment Safety." (PDF 1.0 MBPDF). (October 2000). DOE/GO-102000-0784: DOE Building Technologies Program.
  • Vastyan, J.; McNally, R. (May 2002). "Indirect-Fired Water Heaters." Journal of Light Construction. (20:8); pp. 85-90.
  • Wagner, J. (January 1997). "On-Demand Water Heaters." Journal of Light Construction. (15:4) pp. 51-54.
  • Nisson, N. "Seisco Tankless Electric Water Heater Sets New Standard." (May 1997). Energy Design Update. (17:5); pp. 14-16.
  • Gaulkin, Z. (June 2001). "A Tankless Job," This Old House. pp. 60-62.

ENERGY FACT SHEET


ENERGY FACT SHEET
The average household spent more than $6,100 on all energy costs in 2007 (includes home energy bills and gasoline).
In 2008, the average household will spend more than $6,800 on energy - $2,500 on home energy costs, and more than $3,800 on gasoline.
Heating and cooling costs account for about one-half of a typical home’s total energy bill.
According to ENERGY STAR®, a programmable thermostat could save up to $150 per year on bills.
With energy costs on the rise, you can reduce your home’s heating and cooling costs by as much as 20 percent through proper insulation – attic fans and air sealing techniques. (You must be careful to ventilate you house to eliminate pollution)
An ENERGY STAR qualified furnace, when properly sized and installed, along with sealed ducts and a programmable thermostat, can save up to 20 percent on heating bills.
For each degree you lower your thermostat in winter, you can save up to 5 percent on the heating portion of your energy bill, depending on the climate where you live.
An ENERGY STAR qualified furnace will use about 15 percent less energy than a standard model.
If just 10 percent of U.S. households replaced their old heating and cooling equipment with an ENERGY STAR qualified model, and ensured that it was sized and installed properly, it would prevent the equivalent emissions of 30 billion pounds of greenhouse gases.
Households that replace existing equipment with ENERGY STAR qualified products can cut annual energy bills by 30 percent or more than $600 per year.
Your home can be a greater source of pollution that your car. In fact, about 17 percent of U.S. green house gas emissions are generated from the
energy used in houses nationwide. ENERGY STAR homes use significantly less energy than other new homes.
If every U.S. household replaced just one incandescent light bulb with an ENERGY STAR qualified compact fluorescent bulb ot LED, it would save
enough energy to light about 3 million homes for a year and save more than $650 million in annual energy costs.
The average home has 2 televisions, a VCR, a DVD player and 3 telephones. If these items were replaced with ENERGY STAR qualified models, it would save more than 25 billion pounds of greenhouse gas emissions, the equivalent of taking 3 million cars off the road for a year.
When you make energy efficiency part of your everyday activities, you are reducing energy demand. Reducing demand means that less natural gas, coal and other resources are needed to produce energy. This means less greenhouse
gas emissions and cleaner air for all of us and cost savings for you.
Businesses across the U.S. are doing their part to improve their energy efficiency. Many are working with EPA’s ENEGY STAR program to ensure that their buildings use 40 percent less energy than the average building. They are educating their employees about the value of saving energy at home and at work.
Under the Energy Policy Act of 2005, builders can earn a tax credit of $2000 for highly efficient new homes, and businesses can earn a tax deduction for efficient new or retrofitted commercial buildings. For details, visit www.energytaxincentives.org.
For more information, visit
energysavers2.com or renewableenergy2.com

NO and LOW COST TIPS

NO and LOW COST TIPS
TO SAVE ENERGY AND MONEY
No-cost ways to save energy and money
Turn off everything not in use: lights, TVs, computers, etc.
Check the furnace or air conditioner (AC) filter each month, and clean or replace it as needed. Dirty filters block air flow through your heating and cooling systems, increasing your energy bill and shortening the equipment’s life.
During hot months, keep window coverings closed on the south, east, and west windows. In winter, let the sun in.
Glass fireplace doors help stop heat from being lost up the chimney. Also, close the fireplace damper when not in use.
Activate "sleep" features on computers and office equipment that power down when not in use for a while. Turn off equipment during longer periods of non-use to cut energy costs and improve longevity.
When cooking, keep the lids on pots. Better yet, use a microwave oven instead.
Dress appropriately for the weather, and set your thermostat to the lowest possible comfortable setting. On winter nights, put an extra blanket on the bed and turn down your thermostat more.
In summer, use fans whenever possible instead of AC, and ventilate at night this way when practical. Using fans to supplement AC allows you to raise the thermostat temperature, using less energy. Fans cost less to use than AC.
About 15 percent of an average home energy bill goes to heating water. To save hot water, take five-minute showers instead of baths. Do only full loads when using the clothes washer or dishwasher. Use cold water for laundry and save up to $63 a year—detergents formulated for cold water get clothes just as clean.
Lower the temperature on your water heater. It should be set at “warm,” so that a thermometer held under running water reads no more than 120 degrees.
Only heat or cool the rooms you need—close vents and doors of unused rooms.
Low-cost ways to save energy and money
NO & LOW COST TIPS
TO SAVE ENERGY AND MONEY
No-cost ways to save energy and money
Install low-flow showerheads and sink aerators to reduce hot water use.
Seal and weatherstrip your windows and doors to ensure that you're not wasting energy on heat or air conditioning that escapes through leaks to the outdoors.
A water tank insulation wrap costs about $20 and helps hold the heat inside. Add pre-cut pipe insulation to exposed pipes going into your water heater—it is cheap and easy to install. If you’re starting with an uninsulated tank, the energy savings should pay for the improvements in just a few months.
Duct tape works well on lots of things, but it often fails when used on ductwork! Use mastic (a gooey substance applied with a paintbrush) to seal all exposed ductwork joints in areas such as the attic, crawlspace, or basement. Insulate ducts to improve your heating system’s efficiency and your own comfort.
Storm windows can reduce heat lost by single-paned windows by 25–50 percent during the winter. As an alternative, you can improve your windows temporarily with plastic sheeting installed on the inside.
When buying new products, look for the ENERGY STAR® label, found on more than 40 different products such as TVs, furnaces, cell phones, refrigerators, air conditioners and more.
Incandescent light bulbs are outdated; 95 percent of the energy used goes to heating the bulb, adding unwanted heat to your home in the summer. Replace your five most used light bulbs with ENERGY STAR compact fluorescent bulbs to save $60 each year in energy costs. These light bulbs use two-thirds less energy and last up to 10 times longer. Use dimmers, timers, and motion detectors on indoor and outdoor lighting.
Consider safer, more efficient ENERGY STAR torchiere lamps rather than halogen torchieres, which can cause fires. Halogen bulbs are expensive to use.




THE ULTIMATE CHECKLIST
To save energy & money
WEATHERIZE & INSULATE save up to 20 percent of your heating and cooling costs
Warm air leaking into your home during the summer and out of your home during the winter wastes money. A handy homeowner can seal up holes to the outside by weatherstripping doors and sealing windows and other gaps along the home’s foundation. A combination of air sealing and adding insulation to attics, basements, and crawlspaces provides tremendous energy savings and increased comfort.
The easiest and most cost-effective way to insulate your home is to add insulation in the attic. If you have less than 6 or 7 inches, you can probably benefit by add­ing more. Most U.S. homes should have between R-38 and R-49 attic insulation. In order to achieve this, many homeowners should add between R-19 to R-30 insulation (about 6 to 10 inches).
Other effective places to add insulation include unfin­ished basement walls and crawlspaces. Insulating walls can be more complex, but it can be worthwhile to do if you have little or no insulation now. Check with a con­tractor for advice.
Consider the ENERGY STAR® Home Sealing Program—the government’s information for sealing your home: www.energystar.gov/homesealing
IMPROVE YOUR APPLIANCES & ELECTRONICS appliances account for about 20 percent of household energy use
Appliances and electronics really add up on your energy bill. When it is time to replace, remember these items have two price tags: purchase price and lifetime energy cost. When shopping for new appliances (refrigerator, dishwasher, etc.) and electronics (TV, computer, etc.), demand the ENERGY STAR label. ENERGY STAR is the government’s rating program that shows you which items are more efficient than typical models. ENERGY STAR items will save you money over the product’s useful life.
IMPROVE YOUR WINDOWSefficient windows can lower your heating and cooling bills up to 30 percent
If your home has only single pane windows, consider replacing them with low-e coated or ENERGY STAR windows. Alternatively, storm windows can reduce your winter heat loss by 25–50 percent.
IMPROVE YOUR MECHANICAL SYSTEMS up to half of your energy bill goes just for heating and cooling
Turn your heating or cooling down every night and whenever you leave home. Better yet—install an EN­ERGY STAR programmable thermostat and save about $100 each year; it adjusts the temperature automatically for you.
When it’s time to replace your hot water tank, buy the most efficient one possible. Consider a tankless, on-de­mand system (these won’t work for everyone, so talk to your installer).
An ENERGY STAR qualified furnace, when properly sized and installed, along with sealed ducts and a pro­grammable thermostat, can save up to 20 percent on heating bills.
When buying a new AC unit, look for a SEER (Seasonal Energy Efficiency Rating) of 13 or higher on central systems and the ENERGY STAR label on room units. In arid climates, evaporative coolers are much more efficient (and less costly) than AC. They also add needed moisture to the air, while AC units further dry the air.
Adding area heaters to warm just the occupied rooms in your home will enable you to keep the rest of your home at cooler, more economical temperatures.
LANDSCAPE save $100-200 each year
Trees that lose their leaves in the fall give protection from the summer sun and permit winter sunlight to reach and warm your home. Plant trees on the south, east, and/or west sides of your home. Be sure to shade the AC unit. Create a windbreak with evergreen trees and shrubs to stop chilling winds.
For more information, visit
energsavers2.com or renewableenergy2.com

Water harvesting

Water harvesting

 
Water harvesting is just one more way to conserve precious resources that can be done virtually anywhere you may be. The process of water harvesting is simple. You simple set up a rain water tank or any number of other types of water tanks, and capture rainwater. The water tank is used for capturing as well as storing the water that you harvest. This is an excellent way to provide supplemental water for city requirements, increase soil moisture levels around your home, whether you need it in a garden or on your lawn, and to mitigate urban flooding. Rainwater harvesting is used widely in many areas to add to the existing water supply and provide relief during drought seasons. Water harvesting methods have been used to provide drinking water, domestic water, water for livestock and pets, small irrigation and to replenish the ground water levels. The method of capturing water through a rain water tank has proven to be very successful and is highly recommended as a means of being more cost efficient. Consumer water bills, like most everything else, have risen substantially over the past few years. By harvesting your own water you give yourself the opportunity to add to your current water supply and replace much of your water use with a method that has a zero cost ratio. 
Technically speaking harvesting water using a water tank is a simple setup. You just need to find and/or purchase the required water tank and set it where you can capture rain water as it falls. Many consumers who live in larger cities, particularly those in apartment complexes, use water tanks on their roofs to capture rain water that they can then use in whichever means they need or want. If you are set on lowering your water bill or simply want to help with making the world “green”, then setting up and using a water harvesting system is an excellent place to begin. 

Conserve Energy and Water Resources


Conserve Energy and Water Resources
Ways to immediately help you save on your electric, natural gas and water usage

Adding a whole house fan to your home can give you "cool" savings by reducing your central air conditioning use. Warm air will be drawn out through your attic and be replaced with cooler outdoor air, decreasing the need for air conditioning. If you install a whole house fan, it is important to have enough attic ventilation to allow a large flow of air to move through the attic. Also, in the winter, be sure to seal the fan opening to the attic with either an insulated cover or polyethylene sheet. (Attic fan, ERV)
Raise Your Air Conditoner Thermostat Setting
Raise the thermostat setting of your central air conditioner and save on cooling costs. We suggest that you keep your cooling thermostat set at 78 degrees to achieve the above savings.
If your water heater is over ten years old, it may soon need replacing. When looking for a new water heater, be sure to check the EnergyGuide label to help you select the most efficient water heater for your money. Look for a high "Energy Factor" (EF) rating of .62 or greater. It may cost a little more up front, but it costs less to use, so you'll save in the long run. The Gas Company is offering a rebate
Installing low flow showerheads can save you 7 458 gallons of water every year as well as the energy required to heat the water. (low flow aerators, low flow toilets, sloan valve)
Caulking and weatherstripping is not limited to windows and doors. As much as 80 percent of outside air infiltration enters through places where two different outside materials meet. Examples of such places include where the wooden sill of the house meets the foundation, where dryer vents and fan covers pass through the wall, where plumbing pipes and telephone wires enter the house, and around electric outlets on outside walls. Look for these cracks on the interior and exterior of your house and fill them with caulk. For electrical outlets, either caulk around the electrical box or install a rubber gasket behind the cover plate. Use only caulking compounds which are flexible over large temperature ranges and that will last for many years. Check the manufacturer's label for the best type of caulk.
Cleaning your air conditioner filter monthly helps your unit run better, as does an annual tune up. Shading windows with eastern, southern, and especially western exposures can help reduce unwanted heat gain. It is also good to keep your drapes or blinds closed on these windows during the day. Appliances such as dishwashers, clothes washers and dryers give off heat, so try to avoid their use during the hottest times of the day. If you decide it is time to replace your existing air conditioning unit, choose the most energy-efficient model you can. (multi stage furnace and condenser)
Consider using ENERGY STARR labeled compact fluorescent bulbs. An 18-watt compact fluorescent bulb will give you the same amount of light as a 75-watt incandescent at 25% of the operating cost. ENERGY STARR labeled compact fluorescent bulbs also last ten times longer than incandescent bulbs. You can also reduce your lighting usage with automatic timers that switch interior lights on and off at preset times. Timers will discourage intruders while using less energy than leaving lights on all night. (LED, Photo cell, occupancy sensors)
Your security lighting does not need to be on continually to be effective. There are three good options for reducing costs while maintaining security. Motion sensors turn the security lights on when motion is detected and turn them off again after no motion has been detected for a preset period of time, usually about 15 minutes. An automatic photoelectric cell or "electric eye" is another option for your security lighting; it will automatically turn your lights on at dusk and off at dawn. A simple timer is also effective in reducing security lighting hours by automatically switching lights on and off at preset times. (motion sensor)
You may want to replace it with an energy efficient pool pump motor system, either two-speed or variable-speed. Energy efficient pool pump and motors are usually interchangeable with standard motors. New motor design improvements and construction materials have made them more energy efficient - manufacturers use more copper to reduce electrical losses and better magnetic materials to lessen mechanical losses. These upgrades often result in longer life as well as increased efficiency. (cover pool when not in use)
Act now and save cash while saving energy. By enrolling in our free program, you could reduce your electric bill by up to $200* this summer. Simply pick one of our three plans for controlling your air conditioning usage during peak periods and lock in savings. Visit the Summer Discount Plan
Dry full loads, but don't overload. Separate lightweight and heavy clothes for more energy-efficient drying. Clean the lint filter before every load to ensure reduced airflow does not increase drying time. Take advantage of warm, dry days by line-drying clothes instead of using your dryer.
Sealing leaky ducts can save 5% to 20% of your heating costs. If you suspect an air duct problem have a contractor check for crushed, disconnected, or leaky ducts. Ducts should be repaired with mastic-type sealant, not duct tape. Consider getting your ducts cleaned. This will increase the air flow and minimize contaminants released by your duct system. (insulate the ducts and hot water pipes)
Keep your heating system tuned up, just like you would a car. For peak operating efficiency, clean and change furnace filters according to manufacturer recommendations. Turn your furnace off when no one is home. Loose-fitting windows and doors will lose hot or cool air through cracks around the edges. Sealing these edges with caulk and weather-stripping will keep heat and cold air where they belong. These easy practices can save $$$ and energy.
If you don't already use a pool cover, consider the following benefits: pool covers help keep your pool temperature warm and constant by trapping the sun's rays to heat the water; covers also reduce the amount of water and chemicals that you will use in your pool a three-fold benefit of reduced energy, water, and chemical costs. And lastly, a well-fitted pool cover helps prevent heat loss resulting in pool heating energy savings of up to 50%.
By replacing your range with a new pilotless gas range, you can reduce the gas needed for cooking. This also keeps your kitchen cooler and prevents pilot light outages caused by drafts and other disturbances. Cooking Tip: Adjusting top burner flames to fit your pan size can also help reduce your energy needs. (use outdoor grill during the summer)
Consider using an insulated spa cover. It will keep the heat in when the spa is not in use and can help lower your energy bill.

Consumer Tips

Consumer Tips

1. Avoiding excessive Internet charges on your phone bill

2. Leave lights on or turn them off?

3. Utility security deposits

4. Read the fine print before purchasing a pre-paid phone card

5. Beware of fixed-rate calling plans

6. Drop Line-Backer

7. Don’t pay more than a nickel a minute for long distance/local toll calls

8. Beware of pricey local toll calls.

9. How to dispute a utility bill

10. Don’t pay for directory assistance

11. Saving money on local toll calls

12. Blackouts can knock out cordless phones

13. Make your cell phone a money-saving friend.

14. Winter does not stop gas turn offs

15. Beware of natural-gas rip-offs

16. Budget billing plans can ease handling of winter bills

17. Save heat, save money

18. Be wary of gas-pipe maintenance plans

19. Buy CFLs

1. Avoiding excessive Internet charges on your phone bill
For all you dial-up Internet users, make sure that dialing your “logon” number is a local call (within about 15 miles from your home). If it's not, you'll get slapped with a "Local Toll" rate, 16 cents or more for every minute you surf the web. Check with your phone company or CUB to see if your dial-up number is a local or local toll call.



2. Leave lights on or turn them off?
There’s a myth that says you expend more energy by turning lights on and off so it’s better to leave them on even if you leave the room. Not true--even for energy-efficient compact fluorescent light bulbs (CFLs). Save the energy!



3. Utility security deposits
If you are a residential customer who has had continuous service with a gas or electric company for more than two years, the company cannot demand a security deposit from you—regardless of how many late payments you’ve made. The exceptions to this rule are if you have tampered with utility equipment (or benefited from tampering) or if you have been disconnected.



4. Read the fine print before purchasing a pre-paid phone card
Before buying a prepaid phone card, read the fine print to determine if the card has any restrictions, such as an expiration date or no in-state calls. The card should have clear instructions, and it should display a toll-free number you can call if there are problems. Give the number a call. A busy signal could be a bad sign. Try this: buy the smallest amount of calling time possible to test the card and see if the deal is all it's cracked up to be. And don't settle for a rate that's more than a nickel per minute. In fact you should be able to find rates for four cents per minute or less.



5. Beware of fixed-rate calling plans
You probably can do without an expensive “fixed-rate” plan that covers a lot of calls and extra features, such as voice mail, for a set monthly fee. Usually, such plans are best for people who make several hours of calls each month and need many features. One exception is AT&T's “Consumer's Choice” local calling plans, which CUB designed as part of a legal settlement with the phone company. These plans can save most Chicago-area consumers money. To learn more about Consumer’s Choice Basic, Consumer’s Choice Extra, and Consumer’s Choice Plus — call our special Phone-savings Hotline: 1-866-688-4282. Please note that these plans cover LOCAL calls only, roughly 0-15 miles from your home. You can shop for low rates for “local toll” and long-distance calls.



6. Drop Line-Backer
Line-Backer is an AT&T insurance plan that, for a monthly fee, covers repairs to the phone wires inside the walls of your home. However, most telephone problems are not caused by the inside wiring. In fact, such repairs are needed, on average, about once every 30 years. Drop Line-Backer! Your annual savings would cover any “inside-wire” repairs, in the rare event you need them. (Special note to apartment dwellers: It’s likely that your landlord or landlady would cover such repairs. Ask!)



7. Don’t pay more than a nickel a minute for long distance/local toll calls
There are hundreds of long-distance plans out there, but you shouldn’t settle for paying more than a nickel per minute. In fact, you can find a lot of plans for four cents per minute or less. Go to CUB’s Long-distance Calculator on the Telecommunications Page of our website,
www.CitizensUtilityBoard.org. Or just give us a call, 1-800-669-5556, to find out about some good long-distance deals.


8. Beware of pricey local toll calls.
Local Toll (a.k.a. local long distance) calls are those that travel roughly 15-40 miles from your home. Long-distance calls are beyond that. Don’t settle for anything more than a nickel per minute for these calls. Use CUB’s ”Real Deal Guide to Long Distance” to shop for a low-cost plan that covers both local toll and long-distance calls. If you make very few of these calls, consider dropping your local toll/long-distance plan altogether and using a prepaid calling card or 10-10 (dialaround) number. If you do this, notify your local phone company to complete the change. Your local company probably will charge you a one-time fee to drop the service. Ask your new long-distance company if it will cover that charge. Remember to read the fine print of any offer to spot hidden fees and other potential rip-offs.



9. How to dispute a utility bill
If you are disputing a charge on your gas or electric bill, first contact the utility and tell it you are formally disputing the charge and won’t pay it until the complaint is resolved. Remember, you can’t be disconnected for nonpayment as long as you pay the greater of these two options: the undisputed portion of your bill OR an amount equal to last year’s bill for the same month.



10. Don’t pay for directory assistance
There are new FREE directory assistance services. The trade-off is you may have to listen to an advertisement before you get the number. Still, you avoid fees of $1.25 to $2 per call for traditional "information." Next time you need a residential or business phone number, try dialing this free service: 1-800-FREE411. For a business-only search, you also can use this number: 1-800-555-TELL. Another free alternative is online directory assistance, including these sites:
www.anywho.com
www.bigbook.com
www.people.yahoo.com
www.worldpages.com
www.corp.att.com/directory



11. Saving money on local toll calls
Local toll, or local long-distance, calls are to places more than 15 miles from home, but still within your local calling region. Do you know how much you pay for them? AT&T and Verizon charge 16-17 cents per minute for such calls. That means it can be more expensive to call a place 20 miles from your home than Dublin, Ireland. You can find long-distance companies or prepaid cards that charge four cents per minute or less for such calls. If you make a lot of these calls, call CUB, 1-800-669-5556, to find a better deal for these calls.



12. Blackouts can knock out cordless phones
During a power outage cordless phones won’t work. So, unless you have a cell phone, you’ll need to have a hard-wired phone with a cord in your home to make calls during a blackout. If you’ve got an old phone, consider keeping it for such an emergency.



13. Make your cell phone a money-saving friend.
Use your cell phone to reduce your overall telecommunications costs. If you consistently have wireless minutes left at the end of a month, use them to make the Local Toll or long-distance calls you normally would make from your home landline—at extra cost to you. In fact, you may be able to drop your regular long-distance completely. Similarly, if your wireless plan comes with free voice mail, don’t pay the monthly fee for the same service on your landline. Give friends and family your cell phone number and tell them to leave messages in that voice mail box.



14. Winter does not stop gas turn offs
A gas utility can and will turn off your heat for nonpayment of bills in the winter—any time the temperature is expected to stay above 32 degrees for 24 hours. Sometimes, utilities choose to put a moratorium on winter disconnections—but they don’t have to.



15. Beware of natural-gas rip-offs
In northern Illinois, unregulated gas companies are allowed to compete with the traditional utility for your business. Sales representatives — who sometimes simply identify themselves as from “the gas company” — pitch their offers door to door, by mail, and over the phone. CUB has received complaints of misleading marketing and rip-offs regarding the alternative suppliers. In fact, more often than not these “deals” end up costing more money than the rates of the traditional utility. (See CUB’s Gas Market Monitor, at
www.CitizensUtilityBoard.org, or call CUB.) Unless you’ve taken a day to read the fine print and are positive you like the offer, we recommend that you don’t sign up for something over the phone or at the door and don’t give out your account number. To be safe, ask if your utility can put a free block on your account to prevent unauthorized changes to your service.


16. Budget billing plans can ease handling of winter bills
If you would like to even out your heating bills and prevent drastic month-to-month increases in the winter, your utility offers a “budget” plan. With one exception, this program costs nothing extra for gas customers.* The utility estimates how much gas you are going to use in the coming year and assigns you a monthly budget-billing amount, based on how much gas you used last year, gas-price predictions, and weather forecasts. The utility will adjust the amount if your usage increases or the price of gas shoots up. At the end of the year, you will receive a credit if the company overestimated your usage or you will be billed the difference if the company underestimated your usage. Nicor customers beware. Two unregulated affiliates of Nicor Gas market plans, called “Fixed Bill” and “Lock 12,” sound very similar to the budget-billing plan, but they’re not the same. In fact, they pose a high risk that you will pay much more than on Nicor Gas’ budget plan.

*Note: Unlike any other utility in the state, Nicor Gas charges interest on any debits that you build up under its budget plan. (It also pays interest on any credits.)



17. Save heat, save money
Buy a programmable thermostat and set it at 68 degrees for the day and 62 degrees at bedtime. In most homes, you can save about 2 percent of your heating bill for each degree that you lower the thermostat. (NEVER turn your heat so low that it’s a health risk or turn your heat off completely. That will lead to frozen pipes and high repair bills if they burst.) Set your water heater to 120 degrees and cover it with an insulating blanket. Buy highly efficient compact fluorescent light bulbs. Caulk leaky windows and insulate openings around air conditioner window units. Close doors to rooms you’re not using, and consider heavy drapery and plastic window coverings. Finally, have a heating contractor perform an “audit” to determine how to heat your home more efficiently. Check out more tips in CUB’s fact sheet, “Saving Money by Saving Energy,” on our website’s Electric and Natural Gas pages.



18. Be wary of gas-pipe maintenance plans
Your utility may try to sell you a pipe-maintenance plan, even if you don’t need it. An affiliate of Nicor Gas, for example, offers a $4 per month plan called “Comfort Guard” that covers repairs to exposed gas pipes, including the connector that links appliances to the main gas line. An affiliate of Peoples Gas offers a similar program, “Protection Plus,” at $3 a month. For some people — especially those whose homes have potentially dangerous uncoated brass connectors installed before 1980 — such a repair program may be helpful. However, for many others it may just be a waste of money. If the old brass connectors have already been replaced in your home, the new plastic connectors should last a lifetime. If your house still needs them replaced, a home warranty may cover the work. Finally, Comfort Guard and Protection Plus don’t cover renters. Before signing up, read the fine print and determine exactly what the plan does and does not cover.



19. Buy CFLs
Compact Fluorescent Lightbulbs (CFLs) use 75 percent less energy. CUB estimates that one bulb can save a consumer at least $11 a year. So installing 10 in your home could easily lead to more than $100 in savings. Check out more tips in CUB’s fact sheet, “Saving Money by Saving Energy,” on our website’s Electric and Natural Gas pages.

Sunday, July 17, 2011

Director of Utilities

Director of Utilities
While the automotive industry has often been criticised by environmental campaigners, it has continually cleaned up its act for regulated exhaust emissions. A modern car emits fewer hydrocarbons while running than its 1970s predecessor would use while stationary and with the engine turned off.

Painting a room in an average family house with a gallon of gloss paint also emits more volatile organic compounds than would result from driving a Toyota Prius for 150,000 miles. Moreover, on a typical warm day in a city such as Los Angeles, the exhaust gases of a vehicle such as a Honda Insight hybrid are likely to be cleaner on average than the surrounding air the engine draws in.

These achievements are the result of advanced electronics and control technologies, and the crucial systems engineering, design and integration skills that have developed them into the type of products whose value and in-service reliability are beyond question. While further challenges remain on vehicle emissions, in particular of CO2, the sheer scale of the achievement to date is impressive.

The imperative to develop clean energy solutions across all industrial sectors to mitigate climate change and protect and increase available energy supply is well understood.

Increasingly, the motivation for change comes from the opportunities for profit from innovations in clean technologies. In some areas the revolution has hardly begun but in others it is well under way, such as in the wind energy segment which, in 2007, installed 8.5GW of generation capacity in Europe alone.

Despite some public backlash in areas such as first-generation biofuels, most engineers remain convinced that the revolution is needed and that its pace needs to quicken. The problem is that there are not enough clean energy engineers to make the revolution happen quickly enough. Why should this be?

In conventional energy relatively few engineers are required per GW of output, and the focus is mostly on a small number of large and centralised power station facilities for which, notwithstanding innovations such as large-scale gas and coal carbon capture and storage, the technologies are highly mature.

The clean energy sector, by contrast, covers a much wider span of technologies, many of which are a long way from maturity. In general, we are looking at devices and systems at much lower power ranges (1kW-10MW) but at much higher volumes. This means we need far more engineers per GW, and we need engineers who are experienced in moving complex and innovative concepts from the research stage, through the product development process and into volume production.

While we have an excellent university system its ability to deliver the multi-disciplinary engineering talent required here and now by the clean energy sector is highly questionable.

To come close to achieving the goals of a clean energy revolution we need to bring a wide range of new energy devices and systems out of the lab and into high-volume product application in the next five years, which means the product development and validation programmes need to be under way or starting in the next two years.

The only option to enable delivery across the range of clean technologies needed is to look to established engineering sectors for sources of engineering talent.

The automotive industry is the one with the best fit by virtue of its size, the profile of engineering activity and the existence of a competitive outsource engineering sector. It is home to perhaps half a million product development engineers with a substantial average experience level. Their experience typically covers design and development to take a product through to production in high volumes at the right cost and with the necessary levels of reliability and robustness for real world use.

The products themselves are complex and involve electrical, mechanical and electronic systems and need to meet a multitude of standards and regulations. They contain power systems and drivelines and cover the range from 1kW to 1MW and above. There are even some obvious synergies between automotive and clean energy, such as gearbox systems for wind turbines, Stirling engines for micro combined heat and power, batteries and flywheel energy storage systems.

The existence of an outsourced engineering sector is the final benefit. To start to access this extension of engineering capability, clean energy companies do not need to set up their recruitment desks in the car parks of the automotive technical centres — although many have already attracted ex-automotive engineers such as the Ricardo alumni, who are now in senior positions in the tidal turbine and wind energy companies, several utilities and a leading key fuel-cell developer.

Engineering service companies such as Ricardo are now realising that the skills we have are highly applicable to the clean energy industries and are proactively searching out companies we can help.

Do I care that a flow of engineers from auto to clean energy might inconvenience the auto industry? In short, no — the engineering profession has done a fantastic job for the auto industry over the past 100 years, enabling the manufacture of unbelievably complex machines that work reliably and efficiently and cost relatively little compared with most other engineered products.

There is plenty of engineering talent available and Ricardo, alongside its more traditional automotive industry clients, is already helping clean tech companies in bringing new and highly innovative products to market.

The challenges of implementing clean energy solutions are many and serious and if automotive engineers in general, and Ricardo in particular, can help overcome them, we all stand to benefit. I, for one, shall not be unhappy to be a part of that revolution.

Window Management Strategies for Energy Conservation

Window Management Strategies for Energy Conservation
Controlling solar heat gain is of primary concern for energy conservation because of California’s climate.
In a typical home, more energy is lost through glass doors or windows than through any other construction element.
This is particularly true in California.
The California Solar Energy Center modeled a "base case" house (fairly representative of most single family residences located in central California) to illustrate residential heat and humidity sources. The data gained from this house was consistent with other energy studies.
The direction windows face greatly influences the energy gained and lost for heating and cooling.
On a hot summer day, more energy will come through just one square foot of glass than through an entire insulated wall. Solar radiation through window glass is responsible for 19% of the air conditioning load.
The windows in the base house had two-foot overhangs and were shaded by interior draperies. Sixty-two percent of the window area was on the north and south sides, where little direct radiation penetrates. Residences with less shading or different orientations could have much larger loads from solar radiation through windows.
MANAGING HEAT GAIN
It is important to protect windows, walls and sliding glass doors during hot weather; during cold weather, solar heat should be permitted to enter. Cooling and heating energy savings of 10-20% are possible through good shading strategies. Window films, interior shades, curtains and interior insulating shutters help, but exterior devices save more energy because the heat that they absorb remains outside the building.
In general, the most effective way to reduce heat gain is to prevent or block the solar radiation before it enters the room by using exterior shading.
If this is not possible, the closer the shade is to the outside, the more effective it will be. If it cannot be outside the glass, then a shading device between two panes of glass will be more effective than a shade on the room side of the glass. Interior devices that have low transmittance and absorbency and high reflectivity are preferable where interior shading is the option chosen.
There is no one best strategy that will meet all needs or that is appropriate for every person or every location. Trade-offs will be necessary and must be determined for individual site requirements, climate conditions, and personal preferences. What may be appropriate for a south-facing window may be of little or no benefit on an east window. A strategy that provides good diffuse daylight in summer may not provide adequate protection against heat loss in the winter. Techniques helpful to households using air conditioning may not be helpful to those not using air conditioning.
It is crucial that residents analyze their own dwellings and surroundings, checking to see when solar
radiation strikes their windows and how this varies seasonally, determining which shielding strategy would best meet their needs for light, ventilation, comfort, and privacy.
Consideration must be given to any residential restrictions that apply -- such as condominium restrictions on exterior shading.
Resources of time and money must also be considered. Variations in cost exist among the strategies
discussed here. Select the ones that provide the greatest energy savings for the amount of money spent.
Keeping the sun as far out as possible will have the greatest benefit in reducing cooling loads.
Letting the sun enter, then shielding the windows when there is no sun, will have the greatest benefit on heating loads.
Time and human energy available for window management must be considered.
WINDOWS: THEIR FUNCTIONS
Windows have many functions in homes besides contributing to heat loss and gain. Windows provide
contact with the outdoors for people. They also provide ventilation and daylight. Research has found that people tend to have rather negative responses to spaces without windows unless there is some dynamic quality within the space. The qualities that were judged as desirable attributes of windows were the view, sunshine, daylight and a sense of spaciousness.
To achieve these, 20% of the window wall space was determined to be a minimum acceptable size. This information, in addition to data that indicates that windows can make a positive energy contribution under certain circumstances makes it clear that windows can not simply be eliminated but must be used to give positive energy benefits. Research has resulted in data that can be used to achieve these positive benefits. The purpose of this publication is to present these research findings and to suggest applications of this information for California climatic conditions.
TOPICS ADDRESSED
The major areas related to windows and energy use that will be addressed in this publication are highlighted below.
Factors involved in heat gain and loss through infiltration. Fenestration is the term used for any
light-transmitting opening in a building wall or roof.
Fenestration includes the glazing material; the framing, mullions, mutins and dividers; external and
internal shading devices, and integral (between glass) shading systems.
Strategies to shield windows for heat gain or loss.
- exterior shading
- glazing and films
- interior shading
Window management.
SOLAR HEAT
Glass is a good conductor of heat, and hence a poor insulator. The heat transfer or U-value of glass for
winter is 1.13 with an exterior wind velocity of 15 miles per hour. With still air inside and outside, the U-value in summer becomes approximately 0.90 or below the value of unity (1.00). Materials with high U-values -- close to 1.00 -- are very poor insulators.
A well insulated wall, in comparison, will have a U-value of 0.10 to 0.15.
In addition to the thermal conductivity of the glass itself, energy is lost through and around the fenestration by infiltration and radiation. Infiltration is air leakage around window frames and glass through cracks and air spaces. Infiltration gains and losses are equivalent to about 1/3 of the loss or gain through the glass itself.
Infiltration around sliding glass doors is about three times as much as for a hinged door of the same size.
This is due to the mechanical construction of the door frame plus the loss through the glass. The use of well-fitting frames, caulking and weather-stripping can reduce heat gain and losses from infiltration.
Radiation is the passage of electromagnetic energy over distance. Conduction is the passage of heat through a material. Heat gain or loss through windows via conduction and radiation can be reduced through the use of properly chosen window treatments and careful window management.
Solar heat gain and loss is made more complex for several reasons.
Short-wave solar radiation transmitted through windows will be absorbed by interior surfaces.
Once absorbed, it is given off as long-wave radiation which cannot pass out through the windows and so
is trapped in the room (the greenhouse effect). The heat absorbed can have a damaging effect on wood
and other furnishings.
The room also absorbs heat from lighting, occupants, equipment, and infiltration air as well as from solar
radiation.
At the same time, heat gains or losses through convection -- the transfer of heat created by the motion of air -- are also taking place.
ORIENTATION OF WINDOWS
Orientation refers to the direction windows face.
North, south, east, and west orientations all produce unique characteristics that must be considered when
heating and cooling loads are being evaluated.
South Windows
Windows that face south have many advantages. In summer, south windows are the only ones that can be
effectively controlled by overhangs to block radiation.
This occurs because the summer sun is higher in the sky, and so its rays are coming from a higher angle that can be blocked from vertical surfaces by projecting eaves from the roof or above the window.
In winter, the sun’s rays are coming from a lower angle and can strike the window without being blocked by overhangs and projections.
Winter sun can be used to add heat to the interior if south windows are not blocked by window treatments.
The winter sun never rises as high as the summer sun.
A difference of 47° exists between the summer sun at noon and the winter sun at the same time.
North Windows
In California, a northern window exposure provides excellent and cool illumination. The small amount of
direct sunshine reaching these windows from the early morning and late afternoon summer sun comes at such a low angle that very little heat enters the building.
Northern window exposures are particularly suited to southern California’s brief heating season and lengthy cooling season. In winter, windows should be shielded to prevent heat loss and to add to the comfort of persons sitting near the windows.
East and West Windows
East and west windows present the greatest extremes. They are more susceptible to heat radiation in
summer because of the many hours of exposure to sunlight in each direction. Carports or porches may be
used to provide shading, as can free standing walls, fences, hedges or trees or trellis vines that tend to lose
their leaves in winter. Louvers, awnings, or shutters can also provide adequate shade for east and west windows.
Even though the solar radiation for east and west directions is about the same, west windows result in the
highest temperatures in the house because of the time of day the sun reaches them in the summer. East and west windows also allow rapid conductivity and loss of heat to extreme cold exteriors in the winter unless carefully shielded and managed.
SOLAR RADIATION
The vertical elevation of the sun directly influences the intensity of solar radiation. This elevation varies
with latitude, day of year, and time of day. The quality of the air will also affect the intensity of solar radiation.
Dust, gas molecules, ozone, and water vapor are the constituents of the air mass that affect the amount of
sunlight that reaches windows throughout the day and seasonally.
Solar radiation on a clear day at sea level is composed of 3% ultraviolet light, 44% visible light, and 53% infrared light. The ultraviolet light is responsible for fading material. Total solar radiation is a
combination of direct radiation and diffuse radiation.
Diffuse radiation comes from all parts of the sky and is part of radiation reflected to the window from adjacent surfaces, particularly those to the south of the window.
On completely cloudy days, all light striking the window is the result of diffuse radiation.
Solar radiation striking glass has three effects: part of the energy is transmitted through the glass, part is
reflected off the glass, and part is absorbed by the glass.
The heat transmitted and absorbed can both contribute to cooling loads. Once the transmitted heat is absorbed by furnishings or structure, that heat is trapped inside the room.
Although this can be beneficial in winter, it may add a significant burden to the cooling load in the summer and can have damaging effects on furnishings. If heat is absorbed by a thick mass, such as a        6-inch concrete floor, a continuous time lag, known as thermal lag delays the flow of heat and causes a continuous decrease in the ratio of cooling load to heat gain.
Solar transmittance is the largest portion of heat gain. The radiation absorbed by the glass raises the
temperature of the glass until equilibrium is established and the heat can be diffused either indoors or out
depending on the temperatures and the air movement of both locations. The heat will flow to the cooler
temperature. Heat-absorbing glass absorbs more solar radiation than ordinary plate glass; this reduces
transmittance but causes some of the heat to be transferred to the interior by re-radiation.
Energy that enters the interior through the fenestration is composed of components. Transmitted direct radiation Transmitted diffuse radiation Energy radiated from the inside surface of the glass to surrounding objects within the room Heat transferred from the glass to the room air by convection. This heat, transferred by convection, becomes an immediate part of the cooling load. Air velocity at windows, temperature, and convection air currents also affect heating and cooling loads. In winter the heating load is increased when warm air sweeps over the window glass, creating a greater temperature difference between glass and outside air. This promotes greater heat flow to the outside.
Cooling loads in summer will also be increased when cool air flows over windows and increases the flow of heat inward.
SPECIAL GLASS
The flow of air over a window surface will be further increased by the addition of a shading device set
away from the windows and not blocked at the top.
This increases convective air flow, known as the chimney effect, and causes greater burdens for both
heating and cooling. Heat flows to the cooler surface, thereby carrying heat outdoors in winter where
temperatures are cooler, or indoors in summer if the room temperature is lower due to air conditioning.
WINDOW FRAMES
Solar radiation can be either beneficial or detrimental to heating and cooling loads depending on the season, the orientation, the shading devices, glazing materials, and thermal resistance involved. The size of the window is one of the most critical variables. The interaction of the variables plus the potential losses and gains through the use of daylight must be considered when determining the energy potential of windows.
Daylight can reduce both the amount of energy used for lighting and the cooling load by reducing the heat
generated by the lighting. Optimal fenestrations would balance the thermal benefits and disadvantages of
increased use of daylight, the heat released by room occupants and equipment, the conductive and infiltrative heat gains and losses, and proper window management.
Research results have shown that properly designed and managed windows can result in a reduction in overall operating costs.
EXTERIOR SHADING
A device placed between the sun’s rays and the window prevents solar radiation from being transmitted into a room. This not only reduces transmittance of solar radiation but also gains from absorption and re-radiation as well.
Exterior shading can be provided by a variety of methods. The careful placement of trees, shrubs and
vines, roof overhangs, walls, fences, shutters, awnings, and roll blinds can be effective in blocking radiation.
Decide on the amount of shading that is desired, at what time of the day and the year shading would be provided, and when it is desirable to use the sun for warmth.
Once these decisions have been made, selection of a suitable shading device can begin.
Use of exterior strategies may depend on site and building limitations. Know what restrictions, if any, will
have to be considered. Condominium owners and apartment dwellers, for instance, may be unable to plant
trees or add shutters or blinds. Room overhangs and siting decisions cannot be changed on existing dwellings.
Assuming that restrictions must be considered, suitable choices can be made from the following exterior
strategies to reduce solar heat gain when such a reduction is desirable. Fully shaded windows reduce
solar heat gain by 80%. When using exterior shading devices, be sure to have free movement of air between the shade and the window to carry away heat absorbed by the shading material before it can be transferred through the window.
Exterior Roller Blinds
The exterior roll blind is a series of slats that can be made of wood, steel, aluminum or vinyl. The roll blind is mounted above the window and has side channels to guide the blind as it is raised and lowered. During summer months, the blind is lowered during the day to provide shade and raised at night (if desired). The operation can be reversed in winter, allowing maximum window management and increasing insulation value.
When the blind is fully lowered, the slats meet and provide complete shade. When the blind is partially
raised, the slats part slightly, allowing some daylight and air to enter between the slats. Experimentation with exterior roll blinds has determined that these blinds can improve the U-value of the window area from the standard 1.13 for uncovered glass to 0.57 with a lowered blind. This shading method can require a substantial outlay of money, and changes the exterior design of a building.
Awnings
Awnings have been used as exterior sun shades for many years in south California. In recent years, energy
considerations and more variety and availability have generated more interest in them in other parts of the
state. When selecting awnings, consider shape, color, venting, and the specific materials of which the awning is constructed. Awnings can add a great deal of aesthetic interest to a simple home.
Canvas awnings are available in four basic styles.
The simplest style is the venetian awning, good for east/west exposures. A similarly shaped awning, with
sides added to block out additional sun, is referred to as a hood awning. A hip roof awning projects out and then down (incorporating two angles) to accommodate outward opening casement windows.
Roller awnings are of the same shape as venetian awnings, but can be rolled up for self-storage when they are not needed, a feature particularly helpful in the winter.
Two other types of awnings have shapes similar to the canvas styles just described, but are made of
aluminum. One style is of a solid design; the other is slatted. The slatted design allows greater air circulation to dissipate heat that can build up as the awning absorbs sunlight.
Aluminum awnings may have open or closed sides.
Awning shapes should be selected to best suit the windows being protected and the orientation of those
windows.
Color choice and material for awnings are also important considerations. Awnings with low solar-absorbing surfaces (white) will maintain temperatures closer to the outdoor air temperature because of the
reflection from the light color. As a result, air temperatures under the awning are not raised appreciably. Awnings that absorb solar radiation may need to be vented to reduce this heat build-up.
For south-facing windows, during the period of the day when the sun falls directly on the window, use of a canvas awning reduced heat gain by 55-65%. For west exposures, the reduction in heat gain was 72-77%.
During the period of the day when the sun would directly strike the window, metal awnings reduced heat
gain by 70-75% on a western exposure, 75-80% on an eastern exposure, and 50-60% on a southern exposure.
Exterior Shutters
Window shutters, mounted to be functional rather than just decorative, can be effective in blocking solar
radiation. Two types of top-hinged shutters are Sarasota and Bahama shutters. Sarasota shutters are most
effective on south-facing windows where less of a projection is needed to shade the entire window.
Bahama shutters extend the full length of the window and would be appropriate for east- and west-facing
windows because of the protection provided when the sun is low in the sky.
Side-hinged and rolling shutters are usually designed to have two vertical sections that meet at the center of the window. Shutters may be either slatted or solid. Slatted shutters allow diffuse daylight to enter. Shutters used in winter can provide extra insulation when they are closed. They can be opened during the times when sunlight strikes the windows.
Mesh Screens
Mesh screening materials reduce the intensity of the sun striking the window and provide some diffusion of solar radiation. This reduces heat gain and helps control cooling loads. The mesh screens are mounted in exterior frames and should cover the entire window.
The reduction in sun intensity that they provide is a function of the relative amount of opaque area in the
fabric to open areas between the fibers. Screens absorb heat outside the window, preventing it from entering.
The outward view is not seriously impaired, especially with the darker meshes.
Screens mounted on the exterior of the windows are more effective at reducing heat gain than those mounted inside. Screens are particularly effective when installed on the outside of windows facing east or west. This option can reduce the radiant heat gain by up to 70% in the summer.
Landscaping
Because of our abundant sunshine, landscaping is one of the most attractive energy conservation measures.
Complete shading for windows may be provided by careful landscape planning. Trees on the east and west
sides of a home provide shade and prevent the sun from striking the glass. In addition, shrubbery can be placed to capture the natural breezes.
Sun Control Films
Window film, if placed on the outside of the glass, is another shading option. (If the film is placed on the
inside, the glass tends to heat up.) Sun control films on the market today fall into three basic categories: high reflectivity film, heat saving film, and fade protection film.
The high reflectivity films are most effective at blocking summer heat gain. Because they are designed
to reflect solar radiation, some of the benefits of the use of winter sun for warmth will also be lost. For climates with long cooling seasons this is not usually a problem.
The higher the reflectivity of the film, the more effective it will be at blocking heat gain. The silver, mirror-like films are more effective than the colored, more transparent films. Reflective film lowers the U-value of the window to about 0.96.
The heat-saving or winter films are designed to reduce the problem of winter heat losses through glazing.
These films can lower the U-value of glass to 0.72, improving the insulation value of the glazing.
The fade-protection films are designed to filter out ultra-violet rays. Ultra-violet rays are responsible for 60-65% of the fading of most home furnishing fabrics.
The effectiveness of sun control film depends on a number of factors. These include the type of film, the
glazing to which it is applied, the size of the glass area to which the film is applied, the orientation of the
windows, weather conditions, building surroundings, and whether the window also has interior shading.
Rooms with large window areas will benefit more from the use of film than those with smaller areas of
window. East and west windows, because of the higher heat gain experienced, can benefit more from film.
North windows can be left without film. South windows not protected in any other way may benefit somewhat, but that benefit may be offset by the reduction of beneficial winter sun.
Optimum savings such as are given in performance claims will only be realized on clear, cloudless days for windows with no obstructions such as trees. Use of sun-control film on heat-absorbing glass can cause glass temperatures to get too high.
Results of a survey of film users in 10 cities, including Los Angeles, indicated that the chief advantages of
using sun-control film are heat and glare control, elimination of sun damage, and to a lesser extent,
reduced visibility into buildings during the daytime.
Disadvantages cited were reduction in interior light available, some loss of visibility to the outside, cost,
extra care required in cleaning, and the reflections.
INTERIOR SHADING
Most window treatments have been designed for decorative purposes and privacy. Until recently little
emphasis was placed on energy conservation. Progress has been made with commercial shades and blinds due to the large amount of glass that is used in new construction and the popularity of these treatments in
commercial installations. Designing fabric treatments for home settings can be done with limited skills in drapery making and without a large investment of time and money.
Exterior shading is most effective in reducing solar heat gain. However, people who rent or live in
condominium or high rise facilities may not have any control over the exterior of their windows. Therefore, the only means available to them to modify solar radiation may be interior treatments.
Interior devices do offer the advantage of being more easily accessible and managed then exterior
shading devices. When appropriately mounted and managed, interior shading can reduce heat gain in
summer and heat loss in winter.
The principal disadvantage of interior shading is that radiation does penetrate into the interior of the room at least as far as the shade, and the heat absorbed by the shade is then reradiated into the interior and also
delivered by convection. If the shading device is translucent, additional radiation will be transmitted and
absorbed by room surfaces and furnishings, and as such, will be trapped within the room by the greenhouse effect." If the shading device is not mounted to effectively trap air between the device itself and the window, its insulation value will be minimal and it will not be effective in preventing heat loss in colder months.
A shading device mounted to establish a tight closure and then managed to achieve maximum solar benefits can be effective in improving the performance of a window.
Several types of interior shading devices will be considered. These include roller shades, venetian blinds,
draperies and interior shutters.
Roller Shades
Roller shades are one of the simplest and most effective types of interior window treatments for energy
conservation. In selecting roller shades, the color and material of the shade and its positioning in relation to the glass are the factors most important in influencing heat flow.
Shades made of opaque materials prohibit the passage of solar radiation. If the shade side closest to
the glass has a low solar absorbency, solar heat gain is further reduced because much of the sun’s rays striking the shade will be reflected off the glass before they can become part of the cooling load. Very light colors, and especially white, have the lowest solar absorption rate.
Dark colors will be more absorbent. Translucent shades will allow some penetration of radiation into the room.
Experimentation with roller shades has determined the properties for shade materials listed in Table 1.
From these results, it can be noted that white opaque shades have the highest reflectance and one of the lowest absorbencies of the materials tested.
The mounting of roller shades is also extremely important. Shades should be positioned as close to the
glass as possible. Mounting the shades so that the sides of the shades are held close to the wall by means of channels will result in the establishment of a sealed air space, which will increase the insulation value of the shade.
Another method is to mount the shade with outside brackets and a conventional roll so that the shade fits
closer to the window. A cornice can be added to the top of the shade and decorative curtains on the sides.
Fully drawn roller shades, during periods when solar radiation is striking the window, can effectively reduce heat gain. For south-facing windows, during the period from 8:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m., white opaque shades can reduce heat gain by 64%; white translucent shades can reduce heat gain by 56%; and dark green shades can reduce heat gain by 30%. On a west-facing window, during the period from 12:00 noon to 6:00 p.m., white opaque shades can reduce heat gain by 68%; white translucent shades can reduce heat gain by 60%; and dark green shades can reduce heat gain 33%. These figures were calculated for regular plate glass at optimum conditions.
Reverse Shades with Seasons
The heat-absorbing properties of dark colors can be used to an advantage during cold months. In this
situation, placing a shade with a dark color next to the glass, and establishing a venting system to allow the heat collected by the shade to be convected into the room can reduce heat losses. To be effective, a shade of this type would need to be mounted with side channels to create a dead air space; the shade should be able to be attached at the bottom at night to prevent cold air from being carried into the room by convection.
A dual shade, dark and absorbing on one side and white and highly reflective on the other would provide
maximum solar control. The shade would need to be reversed with the seasons, and would have to be drawn all day to be effective. Shades with low transmittance (5-10%) would permit some daylight to enter the room.
These shades have the advantages of regular blinds without the disadvantages of two separate blinds --
needing to be changed and stored between seasons. The dual blind would simply be reversed with the seasons.
Fabric Shades
Various types of fabric shades can be designed.
Even simple shades, carefully constructed and installed can yield an R-value of 2.0. A value of 4.0 can be
achieved with quilted fabric construction, and some types of Roman shades -- sealed at the edges and incorporating several layers of fiber batting -- have been rated 2.5 to 5.5.
By comparison, a single pane of glass has only a 0.89 R-value. A variety of plain shades and Roman
shades can be designed for interior use.
Blinds
Slat-type interior shading devices, either vertical or horizontal, are more effective in regulating summer heat gain than at reducing winter heat loss. Heat loss is more difficult to reduce with slat-type blinds because of the numerous openings between the slats, even in a closed position. For summer, however, slat-blinds offer flexibility in regulating the light and ventilation not available with roller shades while still deflecting direct radiation.
With venetian blinds, when slats are set to reflect sky radiation, ground radiation is not blocked. Ground
radiation may or may not be a problem, depending on the surroundings. Ground radiation from a concrete
surface, which is a good reflector, would be greater than that from a surface with grass or shrubbery. In
experiments, venetian blinds produced slightly better reflectance measurements than draperies under the same conditions.
The angle of the slats, the shadow-line angle, and the spacing ratio of the slats affect the proportion of straight-through radiation and reflected-through radiation.
Reflected radiation is also dependent upon the absorbency of the slat for solar radiation. Shade
performance can be improved by the use of highly reflective paints and colors on the slats.
Increasing the reflectance of the slats will result in an increase in the amount of solar radiation admitted to
the room because of the increase in the reflected-through radiation. The increase in reflectance to the outside, however, will counteract this reflected-through component so that the total overall heat gain is therefore reduced.
Light Control
With slat shades, light control is also an important consideration. Slats can be adjusted so that direct
sunlight is blocked and reflected sunlight is directed to the ceiling. This will cause the ceiling (if it is a light color) to act as a diffuser and provide a more uniform illumination without glare. Use of day-lighting for illumination can further contribute to energy conservation, both in reducing the use of electricity
needed to provide light and in reducing the heat generated by the lights.
Use of blinds on a sunny window in the summer can reduce heat gain by about 45% if the blinds are highly reflective, fully lowered, and completely closed. Venetian blinds between glass or to the outside of glass will be more effective than those used on the interior.
Draperies
Draperies are popular residential window treatments.
Their interaction with solar radiation is a complex one because of the variables of weave, color, reflectance, transmittance, absorbency, and convolution of pleats.
One drapery classification system recognizes comfort factors as well as shading coefficients. Open weave is defined as fabric that allows good outward vision, partial protection against solar radiation, and uncomfortable reradiation from warm glass. Dark, open weaves provide the best outward vision, and light colors have higher reflectance. Semi-open weaves do not permit details to be seen, but larger objects are definitely outlined.
Closed fabrics are those through which no objects are visible, but light or dark areas may show.
Draperies contribute to the comfort factor in a room during the summer because they generally stay cooler
than other shading devices. The many folds of the drapery lose heat by convection to keep draperies cooler, and this in turn protects those sitting close to the window. In addition, draperies can contribute to the comfort level of the room by absorbing room noises.
(Draperies do little to reduce noises entering from outside.) The noise-absorbing quality of draperies is
related to the openness of the weave: the tighter the weave, the greater the absorption.
Ceilings and carpets are the major sound absorbers in a room. The third way in which draperies contribute
to the comfort factor is by modification of view and glare. Semi-open weaves can allow light to enter while still providing privacy by day. Brightness control is required for eye comfort. For this purpose, off-white is better than white, as off-white does not appear as bright when exposed to the sun.
The insulation value of draperies affects how much outdoor heat is added to the summer cooling load.
Tightly woven draperies will be more effective than looser weaves. Also of importance in establishing the
insulation value of draperies is the method of mounting.
Draperies should be hung so that they are as close to the window as possible.
The sides of the draperies should be sealed to the wall or window frame, and the draperies should contact
the floor or the window sill. The top of the drapery should either touch the ceiling or be enclosed by means
of a closed-top cornice. Mounting draperies in this fashion prevents the chimney effect between the drapery and the window, improves the U-value of the window, and decreases heat gain or loss by convection.
Air from heating or cooling vents should also be deflected from the window so it cannot flow freely
between the drapery and the window. Sealing the top and sides of the drapery not only reduces heat loss in
winter, but also reduces total heat gain in summer.
Double draperies (two pairs of draperies used in tandem) can further reduce the U-value of the
fenestration to about 0.5 by incorporating an additional air space into the configuration. The use of double
draperies usually provides a tighter air space than the use of single draperies or a closed venetian blind. With the double drapery arrangement, the solar heat delivered to a room is a combination of the transmitted heat, the heat absorbed in the room-side drapery, and the heat absorbed in the window-side drapery less the heat radiated to the glass from the window-side drapery. One major advantage to this is that the room-side drapery will be more nearly the temperature of the interior space, which adds to the comfort of the room occupants.
Double drapery arrangements frequently consist of a sheer or semi-open drapery and a heavier, closed-weave drapery. It is customary to place the sheer drapery closer to the window, with the heavier drapery
roomside. The heavier drapery is then kept open by day and the sheer gives privacy and reduces glare while allowing daylight to enter. The heavier drapery is closed at night for more privacy.
A more effective way of hanging the draperies to deal with heat gain and loss would be to reverse them,
with the heavier and light colored one window-side and the sheer room-side. By doing this, the tighter weave drapery would be in a position to block solar radiation by reflecting radiation back through the window before it could be absorbed. The sheer drapery would add the extra insulation layer when it was closed.
Reflectance is the dominant factor in determining the solar heat gain potential of drapery fabrics.
Transmittance is less important because a decrease in transmittance usually results in an increase in heat
absorption, so there is still a contribution to heat gain.
All transmitted energy, and 75% or more of the absorbed energy, becomes part of the cooling load.
Draperies are less efficient at reducing winter conducted heat loss. Medium-colored draperies with
white plastic backing were found to reduce conducted heat loss in winter by 6-7%. This type of drapery
reduced conductive and radiant heat gains in summer by 33%.
Drapery management is important in producing the desired effect. Windows receiving direct sunlight in
winter should have the draperies completely open so that the window area is not blocked. Draperies and rods should be wide enough for complete stack-back to allow for this complete opening. Draperies should be tightly closed during winter nights and hours when the sun is not on the window. For summer, draperies should be closed during sunlight hours and can be opened at night to provide ventilation.
Interior Shutters
Shutters can be used as an interior shading device as well as an exterior one. Several types of shutters have
been in use for many years, and wooden shutters are increasing in popularity. Louvered shutters are
appropriate when the primary concern is with summer shading. Movable or fixed louvers prevent direct
sunlight from entering the rooms throughout most of the day. At the same time, daylight can still enter to lessen the need for artificial lighting.
Louvered shutters allow for natural ventilation while blocking direct radiation. Louvered shutters will not
provide insulation in colder months. Shutters can be combined with other window treatments such as
draperies.
Solid Shutters
Solid shutters decrease winter heat loss and summer heat gain, but limit the amount of daylight, ventilation
and view available. If the shutters are installed or placed so that they fit tightly to the window frame, they can create an effective air space to act as insulation.
The insulation value of the shutter will depend on the insulation value of the shutter material and the air
space. Plywood shutters can improve the U-value of a single glazed window from 1.13 to 0.36. Other materials can provide even better insulation.
Materials with good insulating qualities, such as urethane and polystyrene foam panels, can be fitted to
form close fitting shutters. Materials such as these should be used with caution because of their high
flammability and the toxicity of the smoke and fumes they create when they burn. Such materials should be clad with some protective covering to reduce this hazard. They will help to reduce winter heat loss and can improve the comfort of those sitting next to the windows.
The elderly are particularly vulnerable to hyperthermia when exposed to cold air and drafts.
Jalousie windows used in older California homes do not seal tightly and are a source of cold air.
The solid shutters are relatively easy to make and fairly inexpensive, particularly for small windows. They
can be very attractive and appropriate for homes or certain rooms that are not occupied during the day --
thus with no need for lighting.
Mounting insulating shutters so that they are easy to operate and store can be difficult. Shutters may be
hinged to fold back out of the way when not in use.
Shutters made of foam insulating boards are easily crushed and must be handled with care.
REFERENCES
Bernabei, Carole A. Window Treatments For Energy
Conservation, L.E.T. Project Technical Bulletin,
November 1980.
Cook, Gary. Building and Remodeling to Save Energy,
California Energy Extension Service, FED-35, July
1986.
Fairey, Philip, and Ross McCluney. Techniques for
Shading Residential Walls and Windows, California
Solar Energy Center, FSEC-CN-8-86, May 1986.
McCluney, W.R. Window Management For Energy
Conservation, California Solar Energy Center, FSECEN-
4-80, January 1985.
Ozisik, N., and L. Schutrum. Heat Flow Through Glass
with Roller Shades. ASHRAE Transactions, 1959,
65, 697-710.
Pennington, C., W. Smith, E. Farber, and C. Reed.
Experimental Analysis of Solar Heat Gain Through
Insulating Glass with Indoor Shading. ASHRAE
Journal, 1964, 6, 27-40.
Parmelee, G., and D. Vild. Design Data for Slat-Type
Sun Shades for Use in Load Estimating. ASHVE
Transactions, 1953, 59, 403-434.
Rosenfeld, A.H. Some Comments on Dual Solar-Control
Venetian Blinds, Energy and Building, 1977, 1, 97-
98.
Vieira, Robin. Dealing with Heat and Humidity in
California Homes, California Solar Energy Center, FSECEN-
14-86.
Compiled by YJay Draiman